deskthority

Hi, I have recently got myself a FK-2001 with SKCM Blue but there is also another one in which i could also buy, the one on top. It uses the similar design case without any badge but utilizes ALPS clone switch. What is it actually, and is it worth getting one? He offered me $20 including shipping. And can I swap the case of that thing with my FK-2001 ? since my FK-2001 does not come in clean condition.

Picture below, thanks.

Looks like an Ortek

wiki/Ortek_MCK-101_FX

Tangtawan wrote: And can I swap the case of that thing with my FK-2001 ?

No I don't think so. And since you have a very nice FK-2001 with nice keycaps (thai ?) I'd say the Ortek is not worth it. Forget about it and clean that nice FK-2001 up, the SKCM Blues alone are worth the effort.

Thanks for the comment guys, yea.. it does look like Ortek_MCK-101- but im quite surprised that it still looks good and there is no sign of yellowing despite its age.

Btw, what should i do with my FK-2001? Whats the most simple way of restoring the plastic color and getting rid of those dirt? Hydrogen Peroxide is not that easy to find around here.

Oh, those keycaps on the 2001 look amazing. Match the switches perfectly. You know who to call if you don't end up liking that yellowed case

Disassemble the case, scrub it with dishsoap + a mildly stiff brush, and let it dry. Pull the keycaps using the proper tool and soak them in water + denture tablets. While the keycaps are off, gently vacuum the keyboard to remove as much dust as possible.

You should consider moving the function strip from the non-SKCM Blue 'board to the SKCM Blue 'board.

There are no known ways to remove yellowing other than hydrogen peroxide and paint/coatings.

To remove the yellowing you could try making something called retr0bright.
It has worked on a few of my computers and super nintendo consoles.

Tangtawan wrote: Btw, what should i do with my FK-2001? Whats the most simple way of restoring the plastic color and getting rid of those dirt? Hydrogen Peroxide is not that easy to find around here.

I'm assuming you have plenty of sunlight in Thailand so you could use this method to retrobright:

kbdfr wrote: Apply H2O2 cream with the brush (not much more than a spoon needed for a keyboard case), then spray Oxi Vanish upon it and brush. Brush again in intervalls of about half an hour, adding a bit H2O2 and Oxi Vanish if needed to prevent drying (which is essential). Use gloves (OK, I don’t, I’m just careful to avoid any splashing and skin contact) and be aware the stuff will inevitably drip.

When exposed to sunlight (which obviously is necessary), a yellowed keyboard case will need not more than a few (let’s say 4) hours to look like new again.

At least that’s my experience (based on half a dozen items), but of course I won’t be liable if you mess it up

workshop-f7/g80-5000-mod-questions-t109 ... 0my%205000

workshop-f7/new-formula-for-retrobright ... 0my%205000

Thanks for all the advice.

turned out that my board doesnt look that bad .. the only bad part is that the keyfeel is one of the worst i have ever encountered- the switch is very mushy and scratchy, i dont like them at all. I believe ALPS board are very vulnerable to dust, and this one is made back in 1988; so i believe it has been through a lot. Even though the amount of dust doesnt look that much, but who knows about inside the switch.

Next question, I have been looking through YouTube and some articles about deassembling ALPS switch and clean them internally, it doesnt look that difficult to do so; but I have never done such thing before, are there any parts in which i could be careful of? and how long you guys think it will take me to clean 101 switches? Also one of them is not clicky anymore.

Tangtawan wrote: I believe ALPS board are very vulnerable to dust

That is correct and it's THE most single drawback of Alps SKCM.

Tangtawan wrote: Next question, I have been looking through YouTube and some articles about deassembling ALPS switch and clean them internally, it doesnt look that difficult to do so; but I have never done such thing before, are there any parts in which i could be careful of? and how long you guys think it will take me to clean 101 switches? Also one of them is not clicky anymore.

Have a look at this:

Chyros wrote: I made a video tutorial a while ago on how to clean and maintain Alps switches. Hope it helps . Some switches that have seen particularly heavy use are simply at the end of their lifetime though.