JP! wrote: I feel honored to have found something worthy of an Unsaver since they seem very hard to acquire these days even with having some sort of unicorn unobtanium to trade.
Heh. I wasn't kidding. Let me know if you ever get tired of that board.
(Spoiler: I'd consider an early Space Cadet to be vastly more rare and valuable, you'd be getting the worse end of that trade. So hang on to it, take good care, and post lots of photos!)
Posted: 09 Jul 2018, 18:44
by zslane
JP! wrote:
I feel honored to have found something worthy of an Unsaver...
You've got it backwards. Unsaver owners should feel honored to have something even half as worthy as a Space Cadet.
Posted: 09 Jul 2018, 19:16
by depletedvespene
But... but... capacitive buckling springs!
Let's make a compromise: how about we make a Space Cadet repro with F buckling springs? (and, while we're at it, let's correct a few of its design mistakes)
(disclaimer: I updated my will before writing that phrase in parentheses)
Posted: 09 Jul 2018, 19:45
by zslane
I'd rather make a Space Cadet repro with a modern Hall Effect switch, but I'm not sure we have a particularly great candidate for that at the moment.
Posted: 09 Jul 2018, 21:01
by JP!
Why not a beam spring Space Cadet repro?
Posted: 09 Jul 2018, 21:07
by depletedvespene
Beamspring battleship Space Cadet repro.
Posted: 09 Jul 2018, 21:22
by darkcruix
Going off-topic now... Beam Spring reproduction with 145 keys, built into a massive 4mm steel case in classic design. All with Space Cadet double shot keys and modern extras. Fully programmable. "Space Cadet Battlestar"
Posted: 09 Jul 2018, 21:48
by zslane
Alas, I don't exactly see anyone rushing to reintroduce beamspring switches into the enthusiast marketplace.
Posted: 12 Jul 2018, 20:49
by vometia
depletedvespene wrote: True, but I don't see any LISP machines for sale right now...
Maybe the time is right for a PDP-10 renaissance...
Posted: 13 Jul 2018, 05:47
by JP!
j0d1 wrote: Congrats on the find! Someday I would like to see your complete collection, it seems glorious
I'm starting to consolidate everything here on my Flickr account. I have a lot of work left to do though. Many I have in pieces since I am working to restore them.
The case of course is really dirty but a simple bath is all that's needed. The keys need a really good cleaning and there is a fair bit of dust under the keys but overall not bad at all. Most of the switches feel super smooth and the spacebar is like butter.
1.JPG (1.67 MiB) Viewed 6913 times
Here is one all cleaned up:
Spoiler:
More Pics:
Spoiler:
2.JPG (1014.87 KiB) Viewed 6909 times
3.JPG (870.61 KiB) Viewed 6909 times
4.JPG (1.82 MiB) Viewed 6909 times
The 8748 chip that came with the keyboard. The seller even dumped the contents of this chip onto a NOS chip but more than likely the contents of the original have suffered from bit rot.
5.JPG (254.89 KiB) Viewed 6909 times
I am guessing this module was manufactured on the 42nd month of 1982. Webwit's is #165, the other with a black case I linked earlier is #171.
6.JPG (443.73 KiB) Viewed 6909 times
Posted: 17 Jul 2018, 01:47
by depletedvespene
Envyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy...
Posted: 17 Jul 2018, 01:59
by JP!
Does anyone have any recommendations on cleaning the keys. I'd worry that sonic cleaning could harm the sub legends. Perhaps I should just wash by hand with mild detergent and water?
Posted: 17 Jul 2018, 02:19
by Sangdrax
JP! wrote: Perhaps I should just wash by hand with mild detergent and water?
It's never failed me. The key is to use warm water at the start and let it soak for a little bit. By the time it's room temperature, even the most stuck on gunk should wash off without affecting paint.
As long as the stuff is paint and not ink anyway. If it's ink then a roll of paper towels and a bottle of alcohol is probably the safest bet. That way you can clean every side but the front. Just wipe that down dry.
Posted: 17 Jul 2018, 07:41
by JP!
Not sure if I should transition this into a workshop thread but here are a couple sneak previews.
Spoiler:
I'm really happy how well the case cleaned up. I used a light application of 303 aerospace protectant which gives it a slight glossy appearance. Never use Armor All for car interiors. That stuff is evil, use 303.
IMG_3511.JPG (1.49 MiB) Viewed 6853 times
First batch of cleaned keys.
IMG_3510.JPG (180.18 KiB) Viewed 6853 times
Posted: 17 Jul 2018, 10:27
by depletedvespene
Woah! Can't wait to see the whole thing all cleaned up and put together.
Posted: 17 Jul 2018, 12:22
by Chyros
Great. Now I absolutely NEED one of these D; .
Posted: 17 Jul 2018, 20:22
by kakan
Chyros wrote: Great. Now I absolutely NEED one of these D; .
What a surprise it would be to see one of them in a recycle station.
Posted: 18 Jul 2018, 04:46
by JP!
Cleaned up for the most part
IMG_3516.JPG (2.08 MiB) Viewed 6762 times
Posted: 18 Jul 2018, 05:03
by depletedvespene
I'm drooling here.
(ok, more than usual)
Posted: 18 Jul 2018, 05:29
by orihalcon
Stunning! Are those front legends engraved and infilled, or just pad printed?
Posted: 18 Jul 2018, 05:59
by JP!
orihalcon wrote: Stunning! Are those front legends engraved and infilled, or just pad printed?
Just pad printed I believe. I was extra careful when cleaning them.
Posted: 18 Jul 2018, 15:01
by datarama
Congratulations!
On a related note: Does anybody have any pictures of the version in the white Symbolics case? I've never seemed to be able to find pictures where the sides of the case are visible (or, for that matter, the back or bottom).
Posted: 18 Jul 2018, 15:30
by Sangdrax
Of the several versions, I definitely think you got the coolest one. Those caps and black case are just great. Like zero yellowing too. Hows the switch feel? They need to be cleaned? I don't think I've ever been lucky enough to get something that wasn't NOS that didn't need a total breakdown and lube.
Posted: 18 Jul 2018, 16:56
by JP!
datarama wrote: Congratulations!
On a related note: Does anybody have any pictures of the version in the white Symbolics case? I've never seemed to be able to find pictures where the sides of the case are visible (or, for that matter, the back or bottom).
I've just seen pictures of the front, never the sides or bottom.
Sangdrax wrote: Of the several versions, I definitely think you got the coolest one. Those caps and black case are just great. Like zero yellowing too. Hows the switch feel? They need to be cleaned? I don't think I've ever been lucky enough to get something that wasn't NOS that didn't need a total breakdown and lube.
There is just a slight yellowing but not bad. It's more noticeable in person when comparing the white of the sub-legends. There was a fair bit of dust so I blew the dust out and used some swabs to clean the best I could without desoldering switches. I was surprised actually that they would feel really nice despite the dust. Overall they are quite smooth and none of them stick. A couple feel like maybe a little dust got in so they feel slightly different or less smooth than the others but would be hard pressed to find them again. Perhaps the switches could benefit from a cleaning and application of some kind of lube though to make them even smoother. Perhaps any dust in the switches could cause wear from prolonged use?
Posted: 19 Jul 2018, 18:15
by Tha_Pig
The Holy Grail!
The question is... can it be adapted to use with a modern computer?
Posted: 19 Jul 2018, 18:21
by JP!
Tha_Pig wrote: The Holy Grail!
The question is... can it be adapted to use with a modern computer?