deskthority

I have three F/ATs, and in my experience, that's about normal. It can be much worse if someone's tried to remove the space bar without disassembling the keyboard first.

Powder coating plastics is tricky, to say the least, and even more so if the part is small. And re coat it?

Setting that aside, different question: I'm in the middle of a similar sounding refurb (87 key 3278). Curious what you're doing about the wrist-rest door. I'm looking at fab'ing a new one ...

Wait... are the AT/XT top-shells painted? I've got an XT, three ATs, and a few spare shells, and I would have never guessed they're painted. Even where they're scratched or bumped, the color doesn't seem to change.

On the other hand, external "pebble" texture is very similar to the original paint ...

This is a long shot, but if this is an IBM board, make sure the metal tab is fully inserted into the white stem, and make sure the O-ring hasn't slipped off the stem. An oversized or poorly seated O-ring might prevent the key from being fully depressed under normal pressure.

This is a really interesting idea (even more so now that Pi availability is starting to stabilize). It reminds me a bit of the Pi400 , but I realize that's not the goal.

The PiKVM project has good tutorials on how to setup the USB-to-go port on a Pi. They're typically using a Pi4, but I'm pretty ...

As is evident by the fact I completely missed that the RP2040 is a 3.3v controller, I'm much more of a software person than a hardware one. My hardware experience is "just enough to be dangerous." Grafting a Pro Micro RP2040 onto the existing controller board seemed like a great way to skip ahead ...

I'm wondering if anyone has taken a SMD Model F Controller and tried to pair it with a Sparkfun Pro Micro RP2040 controller. The Pro Micro RP2040 appears to be pin-compatible in all the ways that matter for this project. It would be nice to be able to run more complex configurations of QMK (with ...