deskthority

This is more of just a quick thing, I'll come back and add pics and possibly more later.

Epson Q203A - Fujitsu Peerless - $25 plus shipping -- A currently un-wikified Fujitsu Peerless board. Interestingly this board has a normal bank of lock lights instead of the normal Peerless integrated lock ...

I'm about to become public enemy #1, but after my main PC killed itself, I'm curious...

Wazrach wrote: 24 Jul 2019, 00:00 Beautiful. Would love to hear a sound test.

Can do!

https://instaud.io/3ZSx

At long last, the Unsaver has been completed. All in all, it wasn't the craziest restoration I've partook in, though it wasn't exactly the easiest either, considering this is my first Model F. Again, sorry for all the delays, bunch of stuff's been happening lately (mainly my main PC kicking the ...

Man, sorry for disappearing the past few days. Been helping my dad with his little business and honestly I've just been a tad lazy.

To start things off, the stabilizer clips. Fortunately, these were easy to remove. I read on either another DT thread or a geekwhack thread about someone using the tip ...

Not sure what you know about Model F keyboards, but the foam mat is probably the most important part when it comes to the functionality and key feel of a Model F. It acts as a spacer between the barrel frame and barrels, pressing them against the PCB. It disintegrates most of the time, making the ...

Day 1 of clean-up duty has begun.

Started by taking off the keycaps, and they're all the 2-part caps aside from the larger modifiers. You can start to see the board chow lurking underneath...

https://i.imgur.com/MtbZjD9.jpg

With all the caps off, yuck.

https://i.imgur.com/ZLKxqn7.jpg ...

Wazrach wrote: 14 Jul 2019, 01:57 It's beautiful. I love how alien these old boards look. The ridge with the 24 function keys looks great.

I know, I absolutely love the F/M122 aesthetic. My M122 has a few jank springs so I just keep it leaning against the wall as a display piece.

Huh, I thought I posted more pics, guess I'm not too used to posting replies
Well now that it's out on the bench, thought I'd take some better pics of this beaut

I kinda don't know what to say here. I haven't posted much, mostly just a lurker, but I feel this is definitely something worth sharing.

I was attending a "local" vintage computer user group today (and by local, it was a 2 hour drive to another state, but still), where they always have a 'free ...

I was trained the proper way and can still touch-type but man my form is all sorts of jacked up. I'm just as bad if not worse than how Chyros used to type, and yes, that includes hitting the space bar with my right index finger :P

Still type fast, never have to look at the keys, and have never ...

DatOtherJosh wrote: https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m404618 ... ch_results some skbm board but really cheap

It's a membrane board according to the back of the box.

I've been in a tactile mood lately, and don't really know where to start. Alps are unfortunately out of the question for the moment, though I've been deeply curious about different Space Invaders types.

At the moment I'm just curious how much it'd cost to net me an NMB board with tactile Space ...

Kailh needs to go out of business for this. Please don't buy from them anymore, I for sure won't.

Then who should I buy from? The only modern switch as good as BOX Navy as far as I know of are buckling springs.

These switches literally break your keycaps ... anything is better than this ...

My current main board uses Box Jades and Tai Hao ABS doubleshots, and none of my caps seem to have any indication of stress, warping, or cracking. Fit fine on MX Blues and BTC dome with sliders (the only other MX-mounts I have currently), so I guess I'm lucky

ThePewster wrote: http://healthyplus.club/heres-a-physica ... costs-100/

Burn it. Burn it for humanity's sake.

Well, poking and prodding around with my multimeter and I discovered there's no continuity between one of the top pads and the bottom pads. Digging through a pile of the original switches, it seems I accidentally ripped the copper out that connected the two pads -_-

Guess I'll have to run a jumper ...

My bet is the diode is in backwards. That would give you that behavior. Might be the same problem with your LED too. If not, did you use a multimeter in continuity mode to check traces instead of just your Mk I's?
Both the diode and LED check out as far as I can tell, I'll try testing for ...

Today I was finally putting the final touches to my first project board, got the new switches swapped in, new keycaps on, aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand one of the keys doesn't work.

I've tried swapping the switch with spares 3 times, cleaning the PCB of any stray flux, the pads look fine, the solder ...

livingspeedbump wrote:

Spoiler:

I can't find anything redeeming about this one.

What the...are those legends hand-written or something? Jeezums

Not the ugliest board I've ever seen, but here's a cheapy Chinese clone board I recently picked up for $15:


The backlighting makes it infinitely worse though