Easiest solution for model M
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- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: Generic
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
Hi, I was lucky enough to come across a pretty mint silver badge Model M. The trouble is that the guy I bought it from did a bad job of the USB converter. It started disconnecting randomly and now doesn't work at all.
So now I want to get the replace his bodge with the easiest solution possible to get the keyboard working again reliably. I've read that Phosphorglow do a very stable replacement board that's very reliable but that info was from 2016.
I'm overwhelmingly busy, so don't want to spend time tinkering, which is why I was attracted to Phosphorglow's solution rather than Soarers/Teensy. Can anyone recommend the simplest, most reliable route? I don't mind paying a little more if it saves time tinkering.
So now I want to get the replace his bodge with the easiest solution possible to get the keyboard working again reliably. I've read that Phosphorglow do a very stable replacement board that's very reliable but that info was from 2016.
I'm overwhelmingly busy, so don't want to spend time tinkering, which is why I was attracted to Phosphorglow's solution rather than Soarers/Teensy. Can anyone recommend the simplest, most reliable route? I don't mind paying a little more if it saves time tinkering.
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- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Ultra Classic
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
If you own the original SDL cable then using an "external" soarers converter by orihalcon would be plug and play. Of course you have to "un-mod" the previous owners USB-mod.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Without a proper description of the problem and/or a picture it is very hard to make suggestions.
Specifically, what original parts, if any, were removed? We have to know the starting point to formulate a path forward.
Specifically, what original parts, if any, were removed? We have to know the starting point to formulate a path forward.
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- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: Generic
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
Of course, sorry I should have posted photos - I've attached them here. I don't have the original cable.fohat wrote: 31 Aug 2021, 15:18 Without a proper description of the problem and/or a picture it is very hard to make suggestions.
Specifically, what original parts, if any, were removed? We have to know the starting point to formulate a path forward.
When I opened it to see what the problem was, I saw that the pins of that little board were just sat on top of and touching the metal base so I thought that could have been the problem. But when I put the keyboard back together with insulation around the board & pins, the problem was still there. Now it's not working at all. I'm just looking for the easiest, most reliable solution.
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- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Not going to lie, I was shitting myself thinking this thread was about the RT Model M and the janky converter I made for it. I sold it to a very friendly UK buyer (like yourself), but thankfully I'm not responsible for this!
Anyway, on a more serious note, I'm sorry to hear you're experiencing issues and I hope it will be resolved soon. Sorry I can't be of more use.
Anyway, on a more serious note, I'm sorry to hear you're experiencing issues and I hope it will be resolved soon. Sorry I can't be of more use.
- raoulduke-esq
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Current in the rotation: Silver Badge
- Main mouse: Magic Trackpad 2
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
Nice backplate- shit converter. Those Dupont connectors aren't great for permanent installations, especially if cheap ones are used because they lose their grip.
If it were ME (because I like keeping keyboards as original as possible) - I would order a replacement fixed cable from Unicomp and make a new inline converter using Hasu's TMK ibmpc_usb firmware and a Pro M1cro. Since you want to have an easy solution and would pay more, you could order the cable from Unicomp and order a fully-made converter from Hasu. Then everything will be external from your board and easier to access/reprogram.
If it were ME (because I like keeping keyboards as original as possible) - I would order a replacement fixed cable from Unicomp and make a new inline converter using Hasu's TMK ibmpc_usb firmware and a Pro M1cro. Since you want to have an easy solution and would pay more, you could order the cable from Unicomp and order a fully-made converter from Hasu. Then everything will be external from your board and easier to access/reprogram.
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- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: Generic
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
This sounds perfect, thanks. I like to keep things original too and was disappointed not to get the original cable with the keyboard. I didn’t realise I could order a replacement from Unicomp. Just to clarify, is the cable I need a PS2 cable or usb cable?
- raoulduke-esq
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Current in the rotation: Silver Badge
- Main mouse: Magic Trackpad 2
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
What's the model number on your case bottom? I was trying to look up which cable (5-pin DIN or PS/2) your keyboard originally came with but the number on your plate sticker isn't in the DB.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: laptop (subject to change)
- Main mouse: MX Ergo Plus
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
Looked it up, that came with an 8P8C connector (many call it an RJ45 but it is not) cable.
Fortunately there are converters available for them. Not too expensive.
Fortunately there are converters available for them. Not too expensive.
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- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: Generic
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
Thanks v. much for that. I found a nos 8P8C cable - would this work?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-IBM-RJ45 ... 32-2357-0]
It’d be great to be able to use this original nos cable for authenticity.
I’m having trouble finding sources of the 8P8C to USB converter. The only one I can find is this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-RJ45-to- ... 632-2357-0
I’m assuming they mean 8P8C instead of RJ45, would that be a rational assumption to make? And will this converter combined with the nos cable above do the trick?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-IBM-RJ45 ... 32-2357-0]
It’d be great to be able to use this original nos cable for authenticity.
I’m having trouble finding sources of the 8P8C to USB converter. The only one I can find is this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-RJ45-to- ... 632-2357-0
I’m assuming they mean 8P8C instead of RJ45, would that be a rational assumption to make? And will this converter combined with the nos cable above do the trick?
- raoulduke-esq
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Current in the rotation: Silver Badge
- Main mouse: Magic Trackpad 2
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
Most people say RJ-45 when referring to these connectors, converters, and keyboards. That cable is a nice find!
The Soarer's you found ought to work, but be aware the software is abandonware. Many in the community love it anyway. If you would prefer to use converter software that's under active development and still supported, contact Hasu and see if he can sell you one of his TMK converters with the plug you need. He sells his others here https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72052.0.
The Soarer's you found ought to work, but be aware the software is abandonware. Many in the community love it anyway. If you would prefer to use converter software that's under active development and still supported, contact Hasu and see if he can sell you one of his TMK converters with the plug you need. He sells his others here https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72052.0.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: laptop (subject to change)
- Main mouse: MX Ergo Plus
- Favorite switch: buckling spring
Yes those should be what you need.
orihalcon is a good seller, I have bought several converters from him.
Most people just go with what everyone else calls something, it can help with communication or hinder it.
orihalcon is a good seller, I have bought several converters from him.
Most people just go with what everyone else calls something, it can help with communication or hinder it.
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- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: Generic
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
Thanks guys. I’ve bought the cable & am waiting for Hasu’s reply as to whether he can do me a 8P8C converter in a housing/case. If not I’ll just go with the eBay converter.
EDIT: Hasu isn't selling them so went with the ebay unit.
EDIT: Hasu isn't selling them so went with the ebay unit.