and I found this one on eBay for a good price. It's a Scorpius Keypad with a twist - it has Alps 'clones'.

Before I get into the meat and potatoes of the switch, I'd like to mention that I cannot get this board to work. I got it with a 5 pin din connector to PS/2 converter, which didn't work. I then made a Soarer's converter with a Pro Micro I had laying around, and all I could get it to do was print back slashes and spaces, and that's it. If you can help me please leave a comment!
Anyways, this board is quite well made for the most part, having some heft to it. The caps appear to be pad printed ABS, but are actually quite thick.


Underneath the plastic cover is a simple metal back plate, not to mention an incredibly clean main board. I have never picked such an old board with such a clean interior.

And finally, under the caps are the switches.

These switches appear to be green Alps clones, and that is what I thought, as the listing showed the switches in all their glory. I thought that I would be pressing down on a linear switch, but I was surprised to find these switches are thick clickers! They are extremely tactile and unfortunately scratchy - about as bad as Cherry MX Browns. They bind a bit too, especially on the 'preset' key, which is not stabilized. Some of the switches even stuck when pressed, however this was fixed by a quick clean with some alcohol down the slider, which was immediately blown out with some compressed air. After cleaning each individual switch, I found that the sound was quite pleasing. It's sort of like Cherry MX Blues if they were more bass-y and deep. Have a listen:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/AfJMipQw6Lo[/youtube]
Despite not being the best switches, I still think I would deeply enjoy this board due to it adding back what I miss most from my 60% boards - a numpad and arrow keys. If you can help me figure this out, I would greatly appreciate it. Below is a simple 'diagram' I drew up explaining the pins (as per the board)(what you see on this is how I wired the board to the Pro Micro based off of schematics on the pro micro and information from Soarer's original post about the converter)-

Thanks for the read! Have a good one!