Creating '3D' IBM Model M oval badges (from an existing imprint)
Posted: 24 Dec 2016, 09:27
This is pretty weird... I was gutting a PS/2 Model 30-286 ready to dispose of the remains (long story which isn't relevant here), when I noticed the rear of the case! A perfect negative of the Model M badge in 3D.
I compared a regular black label M badge to the right, and the dimensions are the same. The beige 3D one at the top is slightly larger and won't fit into an 'M' recess, which is why I also wanted to verify (and it is indeed larger than this imprint). That beige one also suffers from flashing so the quality isn't that great.
Comparing to the original black 3D badge, the fidelity isn't as detailed, but it's still pretty darn good. Looks a lot better in person than in that photo. I suppose technically I could take a negative of the M13 too but I'd rather not damage it.
Can anyone give me any suggestions what to take some mold imprints with, and what plastic materials to cast them in? Different colours could be tried, too. I know phosphorglow has been already doing this with full SSK chassis, but on a smaller scale with these badges it should be a lot easier.
Some random ideas for colours, including the IBM burgundy and PS/2 Blue:
Even if this doesn't turn out to be successful I'd still like to give it a shot. I think the real tricky part will be painting the raised areas.
I compared a regular black label M badge to the right, and the dimensions are the same. The beige 3D one at the top is slightly larger and won't fit into an 'M' recess, which is why I also wanted to verify (and it is indeed larger than this imprint). That beige one also suffers from flashing so the quality isn't that great.
Comparing to the original black 3D badge, the fidelity isn't as detailed, but it's still pretty darn good. Looks a lot better in person than in that photo. I suppose technically I could take a negative of the M13 too but I'd rather not damage it.
Spoiler:
Some random ideas for colours, including the IBM burgundy and PS/2 Blue:
Even if this doesn't turn out to be successful I'd still like to give it a shot. I think the real tricky part will be painting the raised areas.