deskthority

I finally found a decent ZKB-2 the other day and it was somewhat dirty. There is a bit of rust on the switchplate. I was wondering what kind a tips people may have on how to recondition the plate. I thought I could touch up the spots individually after cleaning them.

A "switchplate" is what people generally call the contact assembly inside the actual switches. What you're referring to is the mounting plate .

Unfortunately this isn't easy to fix due to the nature of rust. If you really want to clean the plate properly you'll have to desolder all the switches, sand the plate down to get rid of all traces of rust. You'll have to pit out any pockets of rust, too. Alternatively you can use a dilute acid solution such as vinegar to chemically wipe it. After that you can paint it with a primer and a rust-protecting coat of paint.

Chyros wrote: A "switchplate" is what people generally call the contact assembly inside the actual switches. What you're referring to is the mounting plate .

Unfortunately this isn't easy to fix due to the nature of rust. If you really want to clean the plate properly you'll have to desolder all the switches, sand the plate down to get rid of all traces of rust. You'll have to pit out any pockets of rust, too. Alternatively you can use a dilute acid solution such as vinegar to chemically wipe it. After that you can paint it with a primer and a rust-protecting coat of paint.

Yep, I'm still a bit new to keyboard internals. I had a little rust on the mounting plate inside my IBM XT, but the Zenith has somewhat more. I will need to learn how to solder before I can do a proper restoration. I suppose I'll try cleaning it as best as possible without doing any soldering and eventually I may be able to refinish the mounting plate.

I want to take my time with it and do a good job.

I just finished washing the key-caps and I don't think they have much yellowing at all. At least the color on the interior of the caps looks like the exterior. My medicore Iphone 5 camera wants to over-saturate all my pics though.

Chyros,

Another thing that is a bit worrying to me is that the switches themselves seem a bit scratchy, closer to Cherry smoothness. They don't feel as smooth as the linearised Dell AT-101. I've not taken any of these switches apart yet, but I have a good toothpick technique down for when I actually get around to cleaning them. I think you'd be proud of me

Ooh, that may not be good. As is oft-repeated, Alps switches are very susceptible to dust and while cleaning (and lubing, if you wish) them will help a bit, you may not be able to restore them to their original smoothness.

emdude wrote: Ooh, that may not be good. As is oft-repeated, Alps switches are very susceptible to dust and while cleaning (and lubing, if you wish) them will help a bit, you may not be able to restore them to their original smoothness.

Here are a couple of poor close-ups of the inside of a switch. I had vacuumed with board after removing the caps, so that might have cleaned the switches a slight amount. It's hard to tell without the caps on, but they could be smoother now.

I also noticed that there is a slight haze on the sliders that can be rubbed away. I wonder if this is some type of dry lubricant or just environmental residue. ???

I'm not sure if SKCL Greens were ever lubricated (though I think they were), perhaps Chyros can elaborate more on that, but if they were it should only be on the contact points between the slider and the switchplate leaf.. Those gray streaks on the bottom of the slider in the first photo might be lubricant..

Otherwise damage to the slider will be at that contact point, and also the contact points between the slider and the top housing. People usually lubricate the former or both to increase smoothness.

On another note, I find it fascinating that some of the wide keys use traditional rectangular mounts for Alps stabilizers while others use the cruciform Cherry/Costar mounts..

Generally speaking, the wear and degradation in feel comes from two things, one that's more temporary and fixable and one that's more permanent.

1) Dust and dirt getting in the switch and caught between the slider

2) Dust and dirt starting to wear at the plastic from continued while dirty

Generally, just cleaning the switches out with a blast of compressed air is enough to restore the feel if they aren't too beat up. Much of the feel comes from the top housing, even more than the slider, so if you can really clean them or replace them, that will help.

That plate is a goner though.

LewisR wrote: Chyros,

Another thing that is a bit worrying to me is that the switches themselves seem a bit scratchy, closer to Cherry smoothness. They don't feel as smooth as the linearised Dell AT-101. I've not taken any of these switches apart yet, but I have a good toothpick technique down for when I actually get around to cleaning them. I think you'd be proud of me

Good green Alps should feel as smooth as a linearised Dell. That said, green Alps are much older than the AT-101W model so obviously condition is much easier to be compromised.

Yes, the hazy stuff appears to be a dry lubricant we haven't been able to identify. Unfortunately despite a fair amount of effort, people have not yet succeeded in fully restoring Alps switches. Cleaning them out can help, definitely, but making them as-new, no. When you do clean give special care to the inside of the top housing.

Same old story with Alps SKCL and SKCM for that matter. The way the switch is constructed threre is no avoiding abrasion depending on how much use the keyboard in question has seen. So "fully restoring Alps switches" is quite realtive really. You can clean them, you can lube them, you might be able to get replacement parts and that's about it. It is the nature of the construction itself, Alps SKCL green were not built to last 33 years of useage. Now for that rust on your mounting plate, I would just leave it, I would rather lube your nice Alps SKCL greens with some Krytox-GPL-205. That will make all the difference in feel. Nice Zenith ZKB-2 BTW.

For what it's worth, the Dell I have looks, judging by the key-cap wear, used as much or more than this. It may end up feeling much better once I get all the crud out. Also, this and the Dell feel pretty different altogether. I need to do a comparison later, but the Zenith just feels more "straight" linear whereas the Dell feels more "cushiony" I think. All these little nuances in feel and construction are definitely interesting. I see why there is such a compelling interest in these brand of switches.

I already have the Krytox-GPL-205 on hand. I'll post an update once I get further along. Thanks!

Best way to fix that plate is sinking it in vinegar for a few hours until the vinegar has eaten all the rust, then brush it off really well under clean water and dry it with a towel. Spray some paint on after you made sure it's properly clean & dry.

Wodan wrote: Best way to fix that plate is sinking it in vinegar for a few hours until the vinegar has eaten all the rust, then brush it off really well under clean water and dry it with a towel. Spray some paint on after you made sure it's properly clean & dry.

I really would like to do a full reconditioning of the plate, but I've not done nay soldering yet. This could serve to be the impetus I need though. I should be good at it with practice. I remember for the longest time wanting to learn 3d GFX and 3ds Max basics, but I never did until I had a project that I really wanted to do, and I HAD to learn it.

I'd say the ZKB-2 and the SKCL greens are well worth the effort. Let us know what you end up doing.

You will really really suffer if you are planning on desoldering a full keyboard worth of switches without a desoldering tool. Soldering and desoldering are two different pairs of shoes. Sure you can use a solder sucker and some solder wick to remove 2-3 switches but a full board ...

Too bad the ZD-915 are so expensive your side of the atlantic!

Wodan wrote: You will really really suffer if you are planning on desoldering a full keyboard worth of switches without a desoldering tool. Soldering and desoldering are two different pairs of shoes. Sure you can use a solder sucker and some solder wick to remove 2-3 switches but a full board ...

Too bad the ZD-915 are so expensive your side of the atlantic!

I do have a shopping list saved, but I've not gone ahead and purchased any of the tools yet. Even with proper skills and tools, I am still hesitant to desolder the board because I want to preserve it in its original state as best as possible. I will clean it as best as possible first and see how it turns out.

That's a nice looking (de)soldering station. If only I had more to solder...

Yes, even lubing all the switches will be quite a bit of work, but desoldering a full keyboard is yet a lot more time & work.

If your getting into keyboards a proper ( ish) desoldering tool like the ZD-915 is a good investment , you gen get them for about 85 quid on ebay and i know its quite a bit but its well worth it if your going to be desoldering switches from stuff, i mean you can strip down an entire board in a few mins with one once you have practiced.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Duratool-D006 ... xyiRlScNl8

you could even get the slightly nicer 985 for 110

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-LEAD-FREE- ... SwqBJXWptx

andrewjoy wrote: If your getting into keyboards a proper ( ish) desoldering tool like the ZD-915 is a good investment , you gen get them for about 85 quid on ebay and i know its quite a bit but its well worth it if your going to be desoldering switches from stuff, i mean you can strip down an entire board in a few mins with one once you have practiced.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Duratool-D006 ... xyiRlScNl8

you could even get the slightly nicer 985 for 110

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-LEAD-FREE- ... SwqBJXWptx

I probably would get proper desoldering tool if I had a large project. I just want to do a good job. A mediocre tool would frustrate me and then the work would reflect it all, I think.

seebart wrote: Yes, even lubing all the switches will be quite a bit of work, but desoldering a full keyboard is yet a lot more time & work.

With the Krytok, is a 0.5 oz Tube enough for a board? That is what I already have. Originally, I just bought it for stabilizers and had not any plans on lubing switches.