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Ready made Retr0bright - UK

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:01
by ShivaYash
Hello chaps,

I am thinking of using this on some of my kit.
http://www.salon-services.com/salon-ser ... -12-40vol/

But I've read online that oxi-clean and water will also work, and is much less harsh.

Any thoughts?

With best,
SY

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:03
by matt3o
perfect formula is peroxide+oxi

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:18
by ShivaYash
is that this ready made solution PLUS oxi, from the supermarket? Or a total home-brew?

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:21
by derzemel
ShivaYash wrote: is that this ready made solution PLUS oxi, from the supermarket? Or a total home-brew?
home-brew.
You can use this Vanish thing as the oxi together with that Peroxide hair bleach emulsion

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:24
by ShivaYash
Yes, and what about peroxide? what strength?
Does this work? http://www.salon-services.com/salon-ser ... -12-40vol/
Or is it too strong?
Or this: http://www.salon-services.com/salon-ser ... de-liquid/

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:25
by seebart
Or try kbdfr's formula:

workshop-f7/g80-5000-mod-questions-t10958.html

⦁ 12% H2O2 cream for hairdressers (e.g. on eBay for a few euros),
⦁ Stain remover (Oxi Vanish) as a spray (for a few euros)
⦁ Paint brush (less than 1 euro)
⦁ Dripping assembly, small

Apply H2O2 cream with the brush (not much more than a spoon needed for a keyboard case), then spray Oxi Vanish upon it and brush. Brush again in intervalls of about half an hour, adding a bit H2O2 and Oxi Vanish if needed to prevent drying (which is essential). Use gloves (OK, I don’t, I’m just careful to avoid any splashing and skin contact) and be aware the stuff will inevitably drip.

When exposed to sunlight (which obviously is necessary), a yellowed keyboard case will need not more than a few (let’s say 4) hours to look like new again.

At least that’s my experience (based on half a dozen items), but of course I won’t be liable if you mess it up.Before doing it inside, I would ascertain there are no toxic emissions.Quite a few of us have already given an arm and a leg for a keyboard, but would you give a lung?

kbdfr▼
The Tiproman

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:32
by OleVoip
kbdfr wrote:Use gloves
Eye protection should be worn, too. At least if you do such things as clumsily as me, splashes will occur while you're brushing.

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:32
by Wodan
I can really recommend just sinking stuff in peroxide (11%) and then apply UV light.

An ABS tool box I got from Aldi a while back is a great container for the peroxide. It's dimentions perfectly fit almost all keyboard cases and keycap sets. Only really large vintage keyboard cases don't fit in :(

But you can re-use the same peroxide tons of times until there's no more reaction. 10L of peroxide in 11% strength is 20€ delivered here.

http://www.amazon.de/10-Wasserstoffpero ... detailpage

No worries about even application or stuff drying, no need to add any oxi stuff.

This is the box I use to sink stuff in peroxide, even comes with a lid to keep dirt off when not in use:
http://src.discounto.de/pics/Angebote/2 ... iginal.jpg

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:34
by seebart
OleVoip wrote:
kbdfr wrote:Use gloves
Eye protection should be worn, too. At least if you do such things as clumsily as me, splashes will occur while you're brushing.
Good point. I think I will try the immersion method also Wodan. Just to see if and how different the results are.

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:47
by derzemel
Wodan wrote: I can really recommend just sinking stuff in peroxide (11%) and then apply UV light.

An ABS tool box I got from Aldi a while back is a great container for the peroxide. It's dimentions perfectly fit almost all keyboard cases and keycap sets. Only really large vintage keyboard cases don't fit in :(

But you can re-use the same peroxide tons of times until there's no more reaction. 10L of peroxide in 11% strength is 20€ delivered here.

http://www.amazon.de/10-Wasserstoffpero ... detailpage

No worries about even application or stuff drying, no need to add any oxi stuff.

This is the box I use to sink stuff in peroxide, even comes with a lid to keep dirt off when not in use:
http://src.discounto.de/pics/Angebote/2 ... iginal.jpg
no need for OXI powder to be mixed with the peroxide when sinking stuff in it??

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:50
by Muirium
Statement with question mark at the end? (Sorry, I've apparently just hit my lifetime limit on uptalk.)

Yeah, my understanding is the peroxide is mandatory but the oxy is optional. It's a speed booster, apparently. The peroxide is the fuel.

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:52
by Wodan
derzemel wrote: no need for OXI powder to be mixed with the peroxide when sinking stuff in it??
No, just peroxide + UV light. It's foolproof, I put the keycaps on old G81 chassis (heavy enough to stay down!) and sink them in the box, turn on the UV light and take them out 12-24h later depending on the grade of yellowing. You will see bubbles on the ABS when the reaction is happening. Should there not be any more bubbles the bleaching is either complete or the peroxide is depleted and you swap it for fresh peroxide.

Posted: 10 May 2016, 13:57
by seebart
Muirium wrote: Statement with question mark at the end? (Sorry, I've apparently just hit my lifetime limit on uptalk.)
1. A way of speaking that puts an upward inflection on the last word of a statement that makes it sound like a question when it's not. (Common among teens and surfers.)
Hmm that's like sophisticated new school seebarting without the actual edit then... :P

Posted: 10 May 2016, 14:03
by Muirium
Time was Scotland was the place you'd never hear an upturn, even when the brusque commanding sput of words just shot at you, cold and angry looking eye to eye, was in fact a question. Most people are still like that, but the Aussie epidemic seems to be rolling back in again lately. Here I thought we were done with it once they'd finished Friends.

Always amuses me when visitors think we're friendly! Charmed by our impatience?

Posted: 10 May 2016, 16:55
by E3E
The immersion method takes a LOT longer than simply spraying and using a fairly powerful UV. I used a fluorescent UV wash lamp that was around 100W, but it was a bit too powerful for some applications and would cause bleaching a lot easier.

I bought a wide LED UV wash light bar for retrobrighting and it works fantastic in my little light box while also not being as harsh as the fluorescent light. It takes longer but is much safer for the plastic.

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If you can't tell, I used the immersion method for these Acer caps, but I didn't really think it was worth the extra time. I didn't notice better results. I definitely think that caps shouldn't ever be RB'd with a strong UV light though. I've bleached a set with this lamp. I never had bleaching problems in the sun. Key caps seem the most sensitive to bleaching issues from my experience.

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