deskthority

Some weeks ago I bought a NTC KB-6252, here are the pictures.
Btw its my second KB-625X, here is my first one: photos-f62/ntc-kb-6251-green-linear-hua ... ?hilit=ntc

Very yellow and not working, but my other KB-625X also dont worked on my computer so I think its a problem with my converter. Current shipping, because bad packaging, some cracks happened in the case.









Blue Alps and pad printed keycaps.

Wow, that doesn't even look yellow anymore, that's ochre xD . Looks quite dusty though, do the switches still feel good?

Chyros wrote: Wow, that doesn't even look yellow anymore, that's ochre xD . Looks quite dusty though, do the switches still feel good?

Mediocre, I had some white alps which were smoother, but I also some clicky alps clones which were a way more awfull. I will unsolder them and before solder them to a 60% alps pcb, clean them.

I just opened the case and the plastic is brittle as f*ck, but it has a nice steel mounting plate.

Who pissed all over the keyboard?

Seriously though, anything with Blue Alps is certainly worth keeping. Especially given the fact that you will never find a reasonably priced Blue Alps board on eBay due to the crazy inflation... Nice find! They probably feel a bit rough because they look somewhat dirty in the pictures.

Yeah, judging by the amount of dirt and dust they could use some pretty substantial cleaning Oo .

Chyros wrote: Yeah, judging by the amount of dirt and dust they could use some pretty substantial cleaning Oo .

And a new case + fresh set of keycaps

Are you certain that's really blue ALPS? I know white balance may be an issue here, but the blue color looks too bright to me.

Ratfink wrote: Are you certain that's really blue ALPS? I know white balance may be an issue here, but the blue color looks too bright to me.

It's probably just the camera being confused by the absurdly yellow keyboard. They don't have the vivid blue like the Type III simplified clones do, they still have that characteristic pale blue. And I've never seen an NTC KB-6251 with Type III simplified clones. I'm almost positive that they're genuine Blue Alps.

Chyros wrote: Wow, that doesn't even look yellow anymore, that's ochre xD . Looks quite dusty though, do the switches still feel good?

Agreed, holy shit that thing is amber. Baked in the sun for years, or murdered in a extremely hot storage closet. Has that thing been to the sun and back?

For fun OP should retrobright one cap like G or something for science to show the difference.

You should try to make it more yellow until it turns orange

Makes you wonder if they threw it in a tanning bed... But the yellow (almost orange) is inconsistent so most likely not.

We need sunscreen for keyboards.

hypkx you never should have sold your NIB NTC 6151, this has potential but a new Alps keyboard is gernerally a much better experience than a (heavily) used one. This is a retrobright candidate if I ever saw one.

I haven't managed to restore the feel of NIB Alps yet. But when you clean them, do realize that they need to break in. They will feel scratchy as hell until you press them down a few times.

Arguably the worst thing about restoring Alps are the folded pins on the PCB. More often than not, it results in me breaking the solder pad. And that is not ideal for a rare keyboard where keeping the original condition is highly important.

It's not only the dirt but the unknown amount of usage which cannot be fixed, just lubed. Like I have said many times, this is the one and only big downside of Alps SKCM.

NIB Black Alps are your best bet for a good Alps starter honestly. NIB Dell AT101W's are very easy to find and mine are unbelievably smooth.

I think it might be the housing.. The newer housing on my AT101W makes my older White Alps feel butter smooth, while the housing on my White Alps (cleaned thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol) makes the Black Alps feel raspy. I'll have to look for any material difference/wear in the White Alps shell.

EDIT: The first gen of Alps SKCM/SKCL are the best for a good Alps experience, not Black Alps

keycap wrote: Black Alps are your best bet for a good Alps experience honestly. NIB Dell AT101W's are very easy to find and mine are unbelievably smooth.

I think it might be the housing.. The newer housing on my AT101W makes my older White Alps feel butter smooth, while the housing on my White Alps (cleaned thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol) makes the Black Alps feel raspy. I'll have to look for any material difference/wear in the White Alps shell.

I disagree, but that's fine. I have never tried black Alps that were in good shape so I'd say I can't really jugde them. The very clean almonst unused white Alps in my Monterey K104 I'm typing this on are wonderfull, almost like clean Alps SKCM blue.

seebart wrote:

keycap wrote: Black Alps are your best bet for a good Alps experience honestly. NIB Dell AT101W's are very easy to find and mine are unbelievably smooth.

I think it might be the housing.. The newer housing on my AT101W makes my older White Alps feel butter smooth, while the housing on my White Alps (cleaned thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol) makes the Black Alps feel raspy. I'll have to look for any material difference/wear in the White Alps shell.

I disagree, but that's fine. I have never tried black Alps that were in good shape so I'd say I can't really jugde them. The very clean almonst unused white Alps in my Monterey K104 I'm typing this on are wonderfull, almost like clean Alps SKCM blue.

Brand-new black Alps feel somewhat stiff and rough actually. I've had three NIB AT101Ws to judge this by xD . They feel like they need some breaking in. I've never observed this for other Alps switches yet - my blue Alps board especially was super smooth right from the start.

seebart wrote: I disagree, but that's fine. I have never tried black Alps that were in good shape so I'd say I can't really jugde them. The very clean almonst unused white Alps in my Monterey K104 I'm typing this on are wonderfull, almost like clean Alps SKCM blue.

I really need to find White Alps that are in good condition. My first Alps board used dirty White Alps and it really ruined how I thought of them in terms of switch feel. Luckily the sliders didn't get scratched so the chance of restoring them to a decent condition is probable.

The only problem I had with Black Alps is with an AT101W I got a while back... A little bit of dust in the switches but a lot of the switches felt almost linear. Barely any tactility at all. But it was probably stored in a room with stuff lying on top of it for a decade which compressed the tactile leafs a considerable amount.

keycap wrote:

seebart wrote: I disagree, but that's fine. I have never tried black Alps that were in good shape so I'd say I can't really jugde them. The very clean almonst unused white Alps in my Monterey K104 I'm typing this on are wonderfull, almost like clean Alps SKCM blue.

I really need to find White Alps that are in good condition. My first Alps board used dirty White Alps and it really ruined how I thought of them in terms of switch feel. Luckily the sliders didn't get scratched so the chance of restoring them to a decent condition is probable.

Compared to blue Alps they don't have to be expensive, and they aren't rare at all. Just have some patience.

keycap wrote: The only problem I had with Black Alps is with an AT101W I got a while back... A little bit of dust in the switches but a lot of the switches felt almost linear. Barely any tactility at all. But it was probably stored in a room with stuff lying on top of it for a decade which compressed the tactile leafs a considerable amount.

Doesn't sound good.

All switches are now unsoldered and feel after a second test really nice, there wasnt that much dirt in the keyboard. I have seen much worse keyboard, like some cherry keyboards from a resaler of medical equipment on ebay. I will use the blue alps switches and the metal plate for my upcoming 60% build and will sell the remaining switches then. And they are really blue alps, with alps logo on the back.

Glad they turned out alright in the end. Just remember to do some massive retrobright mod to the caps.. or just throw them away of course. They're only pad printed ABS, what's there to lose?