deskthority

Progress! Plate and wood?

wood acrylic steel and alu.

Great! Can't wait to see the result

matt3o wrote:laser cutter is processing my order...

oh wow, thats pretty quick

I don't know if it can be useful, but I made a plate layout for a possible ISO version of 3rd model. I have never used a CAD software before, so I hope I didn't make any big mistake:
I read that the stabilizers for space bar are 50mm from the center, is this good? Also I am not sure about the enter key.

from the pictures the measurements seem right...

I reviewed the prototypes I sent to the laser cutter and I'm afraid a made a little error with the ISO version (darn!). Basically I have 2 1u instead of the 2u backspace... hope someone wants it anyway. otherwise I trashed it.

Split backspace is a must! Although with fat ISO return under it, the victory is smaller, while the cost in awkward caps remains the same.

@matt3o what layout do you have order for this test run ?

I tried to send the updated layout, maybe I'm still in time

mr_peck wrote:@matt3o what layout do you have order for this test run ?

1) numpad wood + alu
2) robot-65 ANSI wood + alu + steel bottom (3d sketched above)
3) robot-65 ISO wood + alu + steel bottom
4) stab-zero (60% without stabilizers) alu + frosted acrylic (no PC unfortunately)
5) stab-one a poker case compatible 60% with just one stabilizer for the spacebar

I think you'll be able to sell a few of those if all goes well. Be sure to dress them up in Granite for the camera!

matt3o wrote:I tried to send the updated layout, maybe I'm still in time

mr_peck wrote:@matt3o what layout do you have order for this test run ?

1) numpad wood + alu
2) robot-65 ANSI wood + alu + steel bottom (3d sketched above)
3) robot-65 ISO wood + alu + steel bottom
4) stab-zero (60% without stabilizers) alu + frosted acrylic (no PC unfortunately)
5) stab-one a poker case compatible 60% with just one stabilizer for the spacebar

Do you have already posted layouts of 4 and 5 ?

#4


#5

matt3o wrote:#5

If you don't know what to do with this one, i'll buy it !

EDIT : i've not seen that it's not a regular « enter » key.

that is a very peculiar design

it's this



with 1 7u spacebar instead of the 4 1.75

My dream case / plate :
A simple creased alu plate with the HHFox layout (with stabs).
The main goal is to made the handwiring visible.

I don't know how much will this case / plate cost ?

that would very easy to make actually and not expensive at all. Alu might be too light though, you probably have to use steel (which is also cheaper) and find some way to rubberize the feet

the end result would be something like this

I need to draw the blue print and find an european plate cutter !
Do you have sources of your HHFOX layout drawing please ?

mr_peck wrote:I need to draw the blue print and find an european plate cutter !
Do you have sources of your HHFOX layout drawing please ?

I'll check later. It's somewhere in my backups.

Ok thank you!

I can ask a for quote if you are really interested (bent steel)

matt3o wrote:I can ask a for quote if you are really interested (bent steel)

Please !! Is the manufacturer in europe ?

What's the difference between plain square keyholes and the other ones? Blue ones compared to white ones in this picture
Square ones allow to completely remove the switch, while the other ones only the top?

I also have some few other questions about the plate layout: how big are the screw holes and the plate in general? Of course to be compliant to the versions you are prototyping. I am asking this because I might be able to laser cut a plate or two (should ask a guy I know who works with laser cutters), so I'd like to have a proper layout in the case.
I don't know if it is allowed to directly post the .dwg file, I will if there is no problem about it.

mr_peck wrote:

matt3o wrote:I can ask a for quote if you are really interested (bent steel)

Please !! Is the manufacturer in europe ?

I'll let you know. Yes, in Europe.

Pyrox wrote:What's the difference between plain square keyholes and the other ones? Blue ones compared to white ones in this picture

diff.png

Square ones allow to completely remove the switch, while the other ones only the top?

yes, square ones are cheaper (less machine time), but you can't remove the top casing.

Pyrox wrote:I also have some few other questions about the plate layout: how big are the screw holes and the plate in general? Of course to be compliant to the versions you are prototyping. I am asking this because I might be able to laser cut a plate or two (should ask a guy I know who works with laser cutters), so I'd like to have a proper layout in the case.
I don't know if it is allowed to directly post the .dwg file, I will if there is no problem about it.

currently the plate for the wooden case is 312x103, but it's subject to change based on the prototypes. The screw holes are 2M, but again, it may still change.

I don't see why you shouldn't be allowed to post dwg

matt3o wrote:currently the plate for the wooden case is 312x103, but it's subject to change based on the prototypes. The screw holes are 2M, but again, it may still change.

I don't see why you shouldn't be allowed to post dwg

Thanks I don't know, sometimes forums have fancy rules, so I wanted to be sure. So, maybe later I will edit the dwg to add holes and the border and then I'll post it here.

True, forums often do. Some file types are excluded from attachments here, pretty arbitrarily, but nothing a zip can't fix.

I didn't make it, the plates were already cut yesterday. So I get an ISO without 2u backspace. I actually prefer that (maybe that's why I did it that way...) but I understand it's not everybody's cup of tea.

Ok, I was adding holes and borders to the plate. It is bigger than yours because from what I saw yours doesn't have holes being "sandwitched" between wooden layers, which will be screwed then (tell me if I am wrong), anyway I put them just in case.
Here is the .dwg for further modifications

the plate is not screwed at all. the layers are glued together so that the plate doesn't need screws.

The bottom layer is indeed screwed.

Ah, I see, it'll look even cleaner in that way.

Excited to see pictures of the prototypes.

I'm going to have to start searching for a cap-set to go with the wood!