deskthority

Looks good, although I can't confirm the distances.

The KLE layouts are: for split spacebar and for normal spacebar.

flabbergast wrote:Looks good, although I can't confirm the distances.

The KLE layouts are: for split spacebar and for normal spacebar.

The guy is a geekhacker (MrBishop) so I have an advantage in that regard. He's been measuring to tight tolerances and doing the cad changes to make it into a cherry plate from yours. I'll try to get the sources from him when done. He also did a test fit with an acrylic plate, and had good success with it. That test fit (and the problem with sourcing cheery stabs) are the reason that I'm going with costar stabs

Thanks a lot for all of your help with this!

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk

He had some acrylic on hand, so did a test cut. It's looking good!

i visit DT every blue moon too but GH is a better place to get into touch with me or by email

finished product. Chuckdee may beat me for posting spoilers so i'll hide them

flabbergast wrote: Looks good, although I can't confirm the distances.

The KLE layouts are: for split spacebar and for normal spacebar.

ive had excellent experiences using KLE and swill's builder tool for the plates. they have never done me wrong

chuckdee wrote: I'll try to get the sources from him when done.

i'm happy to provide what i can as this is an opensource project or layout anyway. i'll try and convert what i have to CAD and upload to my GIThub then link back or if anyone is interested just get into touch with me one way or the other.

I have to say, it's been a very good experience working with MrBishop. I'm just excitedly waiting for the plates at this point! But I do recommend him- his communication is excellent!

chuckdee wrote: I have to say, it's been a very good experience working with MrBishop. I'm just excitedly waiting for the plates at this point! But I do recommend him- his communication is excellent!

flattery will get you everywhere good Sir

Finally finished mine!

https://imgur.com/a/oVVdD

thats pretty cool.
i like the little apple logo on the corner really nice touch!

i need to get my hands on some old apple keyboards so i can salvage caps/stabs/switches. ugh back to ebay i go :/

Looking good! I like the little apple logo you had put in. Mr Bishop asked me if I wanted something, but I wasn't as creative as you, so got the little slashes LOL

Very nice, is the logo etched in?

Abstractions wrote: Very nice, is the logo etched in?

It is. Done by lasergist.com. Incredibly cheap but really good quality. Both plates, laser etched logo, shined and edges smoothed for $50 shipped from Greece to USA. I went to a local shop and they wanted $100 and no finishing.

Got my plates in from MrBishop!

I had to post how they were packed.



And in addition to that- a box filled with stuffing. He wanted to make sure that they weren't damaged! :thumb:

The plates themselves:



Great work- I'd recommend him to anyone looking to get some CNC work done!

Hopefully my finished keyboard will do his work justice!

They look very nice.
How much did they cost ?

chuckdee wrote: Got my plates in from MrBishop!

I had to post how they were packed.



And in addition to that- a box filled with stuffing. He wanted to make sure that they weren't damaged! :thumb:

The plates themselves:



Great work- I'd recommend him to anyone looking to get some CNC work done!

Hopefully my finished keyboard will do his work justice!

I have had issues with shipping companies before so i always over package stuff. i have a huge fear of items being damaged in shipping. even with the shipping insurance its a huge pain in the ass to get your money it also costs time and "ain't no body got time for that"

super glad you got them safe and sound and that you are happy with the products. i love happy customers!

need wrote: They look very nice.
How much did they cost ?

He quoted me $60 shipped, but I threw him $75- they're worth it, and with what everyone else was quoting, I figured a tip was in order.

He even did the work to change it to be Cherry compatible so I could use my gaterons I got from MD rather than having to source Alps switches.

Great experience, and definitely recommended!

For "dfu-util -a 0 -s 0x8000000 -D default-fw.bin", which bit exactly that I'll have to change in order to match the path?
My .bin file in on my desktop.

And if WinUSB is loaded, does the button under the PCB need to be held in order to enter bootloader mode once again during the dfu process?

Thanks

Ad 1): the 'dfu-util' part should be modified to point to where the dfu-util program is. (See e.g. here.) The 'default-fw.bin' should either be the full path to where the firmware you're trying to flash is (e.g. 'C:\Users\<your_username>\Desktop\firmware.bin'), or you can run the command when your current working directory is Desktop, and then you don't need the path, you can just use the file name.

Ad 2): The computer does not really have much to do with whether the board is in the bootloader mode or not. Think of it like this: The little chip on the PCB is like a little machine by itself, which can really only run one program at a time. On chips used in keyboards, like this one, there are usually two 'programs' saved in it. One is called a 'bootloader' and the other, for the sake of this description, let's call it a 'firmware'. The 'bootloader' program really has only one function: connect to a computer, and if the computer tells it 'howdy, here's some data', it accepts the 'data' and replaces the other program (i.e. 'firmware') with the fresh data. The 'firmware' program does... well... whatever. We normally flash chips in keyboards with programs that can pretend to the computer that it's actually a keyboard. And sometimes produce what to the computer appears to be keypresses.

For this particular chip, the protocol with which the 'bootloader' talks to the computer is called 'DFU' (stands for 'device firmware upgrade' or something like that).

When the board is powered up, it needs to decide whether it will run the 'bootloader' program, or the 'firmware' program. It does that by checking whether the PCB button is pressed or not. If it is, the 'bootloader' will run. If it isn't, 'firmware' will run.

TL;DR: you don't need to hold the button on the PCB once the board is in the 'DFU' mode (i.e. the currently running program is the 'bootloader').

I have a cherry mx plate and back in acrylic if anyone wants? $15 shipped in US.

Finally Finished mine! Gateron Browns, and plates from MrBishop. Now I just need some appropriate caps - ordering from PMK later this week, and then this project will be done!

chuckdee wrote:Finally Finished mine! Gateron Browns, and plates from MrBishop. Now I just need some appropriate caps - ordering from PMK later this week, and then this project will be done!

That looks so nice dude

sent from my chess board