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Posted: 15 Jun 2014, 00:50
by Muirium
hwood34 wrote:And are the rj45 connectors used on keyboards the same you can pick up in the store?
Physically, yes. But they are not wired up the same as Ethernet.
Data, clock, GND (0 volts) and VCC (+5 volts) are the important connections for
Soarer's converter. I think PE is some sort of earth connection, but I use the cable shielding for that.
Posted: 15 Jun 2014, 01:19
by hwood34
Ah. On a related note, would anyone here recommend picking up an Apple Model M0110?
Posted: 15 Jun 2014, 11:53
by scottc
hwood34 wrote:Ah. On a related note, would anyone here recommend picking up an Apple Model M0110?
I've seen some very impressive mod work done on them, so why not?
Posted: 17 Jun 2014, 22:07
by Daniel Beardsmore
’ere, Oracle — how comes your topic has a picture in the topics list that doesn't appear in the frist post? That's cheating. (cf BASIC vs C syntax)
Posted: 17 Jun 2014, 22:29
by The Keyboard Oracle
The Keyboard Oracle has decided: The enlightened Oracle hath readeth the
manual.
Posted: 20 Jun 2014, 16:31
by cache
Dearest oracle!
I have been using a Logitech G11 for years now and it seems the time has come to jump on the mechanical bandwagon.
Now I am solidly playing Dota 2 after being a life long Counter-Strike player, but it has kind of fallen to pieces in light of Source and CS:GO being dogcrap.
SO!
After extensive research, I hear reds, browns or blacks are my way to go. I am a hardcore gamer, I might accidentally hit the keys by hovering over them, I don't mind hitting the keys a little harder so I am erring toward black ahead of the others, maybe? I really don't know.
I do love my backlight, looked into the Razer Blackwidow and then after my research saw it had bad reliability reviews and aftercare, so, I thought, Steelseries 6gv2, can't go wrong, well, research again, not great!
I was thinking of spending around £75-90 and think the Das's look a bit pricey but ideally want one with a palm rest, and the backlight.
What is the Oracles thoughts? Or anyone's thoughts for that matter!
Chris
Posted: 20 Jun 2014, 23:03
by Muirium
Fullsize? Tenkeyless? Are you really sure about the wrist rest?
Posted: 21 Jun 2014, 00:00
by cache
Yeah I get RSI

full size please, not bothered about programmables, really looking at the corsair k70 now as my main choice with reds?
Posted: 21 Jun 2014, 00:13
by Muirium
Other end of the keyboard spectrum from where I'm knowledgable, alas. Whenever I see a number pad, I want to saw it off!
Have you tried a split keyboard? They can be much better for RSI. Although ergo keyboards are a whole other axis…
In any case, I'd say you're better off without MX browns. They're just as light as reds, but have a gritty feel in the middle. Their tactile bump is so slight it's odd that they're usually suggested as the safe choice switch. No way, linear is the one to try when in doubt. Red if you like to move fast and light, black if you want a bit more pushback. I'd go with reds, myself.
Posted: 28 Jun 2014, 08:35
by cinnamonrollz
O great oracle, I need a keyboard that is cheap as possible, tactile, loud and has and preferably least the actuation force of mx blacks. max budget $75. used or new.
Posted: 28 Jun 2014, 12:00
by cache
i went for the corsair k70, absolutely gorgeous looking keyboard, a breeze to type on albeit a little smaller than the traditional keyboard so its going to take a little getting used to but ultimately i can type faster on it. lots of people moan about accidetally depressing the cherry reds with their fingers resting on wasd and its absolutely fine for me!!

love it
Posted: 29 Jun 2014, 21:02
by Madhias
Oh great and mighty Oracle, should i bolt mod or not?

Posted: 29 Jun 2014, 21:40
by Hypersphere
cinnamonrollz wrote: O great oracle, I need a keyboard that is cheap as possible, tactile, loud and has and preferably least the actuation force of mx blacks. max budget $75. used or new.
The Oracle himself should answer, but from your description, this humble servant suggests getting an IBM buckling spring, preferably a Model F. Prices cover a wide range, but I am typing on an XT at the moment that I purchased from eBay for $19.
Posted: 29 Jun 2014, 21:45
by Hypersphere
[quote="madhias" post_id=170732]Oh great and mighty Oracle, should i bolt mod or not?
<snip>
The Oracle himself should answer, but this fellow supplicant suggests the following:
-- How does the board sound and feel to you?
-- It appears that the board has only a few popped rivets; it might not require a bolt mod, or you could do just a partial mod, replacing the popped rivets with bolts or screws.
-- Others might suggest that if you are going to replace some, go ahead and replace them all.
Posted: 30 Jun 2014, 00:37
by The Keyboard Oracle
Hypersphere wrote: The Oracle himself should answer
The Keyboard Oracle has decided: Thou may not "hear" the actual voice of the Perspicacious Oracle, but his Spiritual Wisdom speaks with many voices.
Posted: 30 Jun 2014, 00:40
by scottc
I've tried a bolt mod before, but I wasn't successful. Partially because it's for a spare keyboard that I don't use, but partially because I found it really difficult. Others seem to fare pretty well, though.
My opinion would be to only do it if you need to! Or if the tactility feels slightly brown...
Posted: 30 Jun 2014, 01:21
by Pitusky
Oh mighty Oracle
I have a doubt if I shall buy the DasKeyboard 4 or Matias Tactile Pro 4 and I request your mighty knowledge and wisdom, I am a man of great typing so I have some requirements:
-I want a Nostalgic feeling
-The click-clack key sound is a must
-I will be doing gaming,day to day browsing and text editing.
-Must be Cherry MX blue or White Alps key
-Must be for Mac
Oh mighty Oracle I request your might knowledge.
Posted: 30 Jun 2014, 20:46
by Muirium
Having quickly read your couple of other threads about this question (I see you are anxious!) I advise the Matias. His Alps revival switches are well done, and definitely sound old school like the Alps boards of ancient times. Cherry's MX blues are nice in their own way (and open up a world of aftermarket caps upgrades that does not exist on Alps / Matias) but the higher click isn't as old school, to me.
The good news is that both are good, solid choices, and both work well with the Mac. I'd go Matias, but you could do either and you'll be fine.
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 18:40
by noobie94
Oh mighty Oracle
I am searching for a keyboard like the modern apple keyboards with a detachable cord.
Please help
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 18:53
by Muirium
Aren't modern chiclet keyboards pretty much all that same feel? You have an advantage over the rest of us into classic mechanicals: you can go right to an ordinary computer shop and look around!
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 19:12
by noobie94
Muirium wrote: Aren't modern chiclet keyboards pretty much all that same feel? You have an advantage over the rest of us into classic mechanicals: you can go right to an ordinary computer shop and look around!
Aren´t the apple sicssor switches a bit different to the regular rubber domes?
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 19:14
by Muirium
All the details:
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Scissor_switch
Scissor switches are very common now anyway, as many mainstream keyboard makers follow Apple's move and go to a laptop thinness even on the desktop.
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 19:17
by bhtooefr
"Scissor switch" is a bit of a misnomer, really, as the scissor mechanism isn't related to the switching behavior at all. It's merely a stabilizing mechanism for low-profile switches - almost invariably short-travel membrane rubber dome switches.
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 19:19
by Muirium
Exactly. They do feel different to regular rubber domes, though, so I do tend to use the name. I'd take scissor switch over regular cheapo dome any day, but only for portability's sake. They ain't no Topre, let's put it that way!
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 19:41
by noobie94
Call me crazy but I like them a lot!
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 20:33
by Hermith
To anyone with a PCB mount keyboard; how successful are you in removing keycaps without also pulling the stem+top part? I feel like 90% of the switches come apart when I'm pulling keycaps on my PCB mounted switches. It feels so dangerous!
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 20:37
by Muirium
Oh, you should try pulling caps from
NMB space invaders! Tight caps and loose switches = uh oh. Those buggers just pop open and the long, thin, springs go flying everywhere. I had to go fish out out from under the woodwork recently. Took a couple of days to find it there.
But even so, only maybe a quarter of switches were opening up on me once I thought I had the knack. You are using a good wire puller, right?
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 20:38
by alinh
Hermith wrote: To anyone with a PCB mount keyboard; how successful are you in removing keycaps without also pulling the stem+top part? I feel like 90% of the switches come apart when I'm pulling keycaps on my PCB mounted switches. It feels so dangerous!
don't pull straight up, wiggle the keycap puller sideways while pulling gently.
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 20:39
by Hermith
I'm literally wiggeling my ass off, nothing seems to work better than others. I was thinking the keycaps might be tight but this happens both with Das' stock caps and a set of WASDKeyboards ABS caps.
Edit: Didn't see your post there Muirium. I'm using a standard WASDKeyboards key puller (the one with wires).
Posted: 02 Jul 2014, 20:42
by alinh
Hermith wrote: I'm literally wiggeling my ass off, nothing seems to work better than others. I was thinking the keycaps might be tight but this happens both with Das' stock caps and a set of WASDKeyboards ABS caps.
Stock caps felt loose - but only tried on 3 boards. DSA can be tight, but they do eventally come off.
As Muirium said : "You are using a good wire puller, right?"