Page 22 of 142
Posted: 10 May 2016, 17:43
by Muirium
Come on, you know the internet. Everything is Rare! and Clicky! and when it needs sold.
Posted: 10 May 2016, 18:05
by emdude
And especially if it's
REAL Complicated SKCM Blue Alps
!!!
Posted: 10 May 2016, 18:34
by Abstractions
emdude wrote: And especially if it's
REAL Complicated SKCM Blue Alps
!!!
You mean
the Blue Alps
Posted: 10 May 2016, 18:36
by Muirium
Quick: list that shit on The Ebay!
Posted: 10 May 2016, 19:45
by E3E
Speaking of Samsung logos.
Mine came off of a Chicony 5161 that was formerly Blaise170's, but ended up in the hands of someone else, trenchantgrifter, I believe, from memory, and they mailed me the bezel because I thought the logo would look sweet on my FAME, since it looks so much like the KB5161. Added Hebrew caps from a Tai Hao APC TH-5539, and then it was complete!
Didn't realize how horribly crooked that last picture was until now, but I need a better camera and more lighting anyway.
Of course, the coolest aspects of my TH-5539 FAME are the modifications I've done, like the ANSI modding and the plate painting, heheh.
Tai Hao doesn't even seem to have one of these at their HQ. It's weird how rare it is. I'd like to see another one pop up.
Posted: 11 May 2016, 16:12
by alh84001
emdude wrote: And IIRC, the AT101W does have lasered caps, not the best, unfortunately.
Yeah, they will wear out, but how do they compare to SGI caps apart from print?
Posted: 11 May 2016, 16:17
by andrewjoy
thin ABS vs thick PBT. No comparison in my view , the dell caps are not bad the SGI are just so much better
Posted: 11 May 2016, 18:13
by keycap
I'm working on both an AT101W and a Ortek MKB-84SX. Restoring the Ortek and probably doing a retrobright mod on it, it's really yellowed. And the AT101W is in amazing shape, just the switches need some work. I'm thinking about swapping the Bamboo Black Alps with Pine Black Alps.
Posted: 13 May 2016, 16:15
by Blaise170
Posted: 13 May 2016, 17:19
by ramnes
Looks perfect on your setup, man!
Posted: 13 May 2016, 17:29
by Muirium
That screen had better be 4K. I use my little 24" 4K display about that range, and I wouldn't want the pixels any larger. The little bastards would start getting visible again!
Posted: 13 May 2016, 17:42
by keycap
I'm not picky at all when it comes to screen resolution, just as long as it's not too low like 800x600. You would shun me if you knew what kind of monitor I use on a daily basis (1080p 27")

Posted: 13 May 2016, 17:56
by Blaise170
It's 1080p, but most of the time I'm just gaming on it anyways. I'll probably upgrade it in a year or two when I get the money to do so, but for now it's fine.
Posted: 13 May 2016, 18:18
by ohaimark
1080p for gaming on 17" laptop monitor is great. Native resolution with decent framerates.
Posted: 13 May 2016, 18:18
by Chyros
That's a Sharp, isn't it? I saw that in your inventory, I was intrigued already

. Very nice, it looks really slick like that. Beautiful!
Also, points for ToEE, it's my only ever brush with D&D but I really liked it

.
Posted: 13 May 2016, 20:39
by Ray
The ToEE was a very fun game on PC, especially with community mods. I wouldn't enjoy it much as a pen and paper, though.
Also nice looking board. I like that spacebar.
Posted: 14 May 2016, 00:31
by Redmaus
Oh my god just look at how vibrant the yellow alps switch is in that pic!
Jeez I need to get my alps boards built now.
Posted: 14 May 2016, 17:58
by ohaimark
Watching my own auction is worrisome -- will I be trolled? -sighs-
Posted: 14 May 2016, 18:45
by Redmaus
Trolls have kind of died down so you might be safe.
Posted: 14 May 2016, 21:09
by emdude
Well your Chicony board went for a pretty decent amount, mark, I eat my words.

Posted: 14 May 2016, 21:12
by ohaimark
I pegged it around $130, so I was surprised too.
Posted: 14 May 2016, 23:58
by E3E
Samsung speaks to people, man.
But seriously, a functional board with a decent layout and a cool vintage Samsung sticker. Way cool. Oh right, and blue Alps. Let's just say that the yellowing adds another $38 on top for that real classy retro look.
Unless people are just buying to salvage, but that'd be pretty puzzling considering that DC-2014 going unsold just recently.
Posted: 15 May 2016, 14:07
by keycap
E3E wrote:
Let's just say that the yellowing adds another $38 on top for that real classy retro look.
I don't understand this too much. Typically I'll pay a bit more for a keyboard that isn't yellowed.
Posted: 15 May 2016, 16:46
by bubblebobbler
I have a question (it seems I always have a question when posting in this thread

)
what type of stabilization method will I need with caps like these? will costar's hooks suffice?
Posted: 15 May 2016, 16:49
by Muirium
Wrap [ img ] [ /img ] tags around those links (without any spaces) and we'll see them inline.
Posted: 15 May 2016, 17:05
by bubblebobbler
Muirium wrote: Wrap [ img ] [ /img ] tags around those links (without any spaces) and we'll see them inline.
done, I wasn't sure if the page would auto-resize and these are pretty big pics - I guess I should've figured it would since we're not in 2005 anymore
Posted: 15 May 2016, 17:07
by Chyros
bubblebobbler wrote: I have a question (it seems I always have a question when posting in this thread

)
what type of stabilization method will I need with caps like these? will costar's hooks suffice?
They're inverse wire stabilisers. The stabs are retained capside and slide plateside.
Posted: 15 May 2016, 17:10
by Muirium
Yup. Quite common among the Alps boards I have, plus IBM spacebars were that way too. I prefer those over Costar stabs, which are really nasty to pull.
Posted: 15 May 2016, 18:01
by jacobolus
bubblebobbler wrote: I have a question (it seems I always have a question when posting in this thread

)
what type of stabilization method will I need with caps like these? will costar's hooks suffice?
What’s the context? Are you trying to build a custom board to use these keycaps? In that case, I would personally recommend just finding some nicer ones.
What keyboard are these from?
Posted: 15 May 2016, 18:19
by bubblebobbler
jacobolus wrote: bubblebobbler wrote: I have a question (it seems I always have a question when posting in this thread

)
what type of stabilization method will I need with caps like these? will costar's hooks suffice?
What’s the context? Are you trying to build a custom board to use these keycaps? In that case, I would personally recommend just finding some nicer ones.
What keyboard are these from?
This would be for a custom board yep, I haven't got a plate made yet, and I'd like to know what the heck I'm doing before getting one made and then it being pointless
these are from an Acer (Viglen) 6312 - I'd like some nicer caps, but I don't know where to look with my primary condition being that I really want ISO (preferably ISO-UK) caps, and that AEK ISO is not possible with the PCB I have. If anyone has any suggestions or anything that fits my criteria, let me know!