deskthority

Muirium wrote: I definitely would NOT want that as the standard behaviour! But good news: Soarer supports macros. Look into them!

Thanks for the pointer -- I looked through the documentation again, but I think that macro usage would violate Blizzard's ToS, unfortunately.

Would there be any (easy) way to make key repeating the standard behavior?

Thanks for any help!

Violate a ToS! For Christ sake, these game companies! We used to throw every auto fire peripheral at our games we could, back in my day. Who's game is it, again, anyway?

poeticEnnui wrote:

Muirium wrote: I definitely would NOT want that as the standard behaviour! But good news: Soarer supports macros. Look into them!

Thanks for the pointer -- I looked through the documentation again, but I think that macro usage would violate Blizzard's ToS, unfortunately.

Would there be any (easy) way to make key repeating the standard behavior?

Thanks for any help!

Blizzard
I have seen someone to be banned from WOW for lifetime because usage of macros.

MasterControl90 wrote:

Halvar wrote: Take a look at the file halvar.sc in Soarer's zip file. It' the config file I use for my M-122. I've tried to comment it to make clear which keys have which name.

Sorry, what kind of file is it? how i can open/use it? I'm a total newbie in these kind of things.

On windows its very easy.
Open halvar.sc (that one did I use at my first time with the controller, on a M-122) in config folder with a text editor (I like notepad++) and edit as you like. Use the documentation that soarer provide for reference.
When done editing, just drag the file onto scaswr.bat and the config writes to the board automagically. But check that it dosent get any errors, if you get one(its here notepad++ come in handy) fix it and drop again. Very easy.

Is it anyone thats know if there is a possibility to add leds for FN buttons. I have added a 3-way switch (on-off-on) assigned to 2 FN keys and would like to add leds to them. The switch is soldered to aux1 and aux2.

You would need Soarer to implement that, since it's not currently possible as far as I know, and the code isn't open.

Unfortunately, Soarer seems to be in some kind of aestivation mode (summering through the summer).

Halvar wrote: You would need Soarer to implement that, since it's not currently possible as far as I know, and the code isn't open.

Unfortunately, Soarer seems to be in some kind of aestivation mode (summering through the summer).

Ok, thats what I thought...
But I dont hold him to it. It's an incredible summer here.

A DPDT (on-off-on) switch would work. Just wire the leds to the other set of terminals.

Igthorn wrote: A DPDT (on-off-on) switch would work. Just wire the leds to the other set of terminals.

You mean a six pole switch? I bought a three pole one.
But I could change to a six pole one, they have the same mounting hole.
The VCC outputs on the teensy all have 5V? Or is the other one on 3.3V? Think the ATmega32u4 as one 3.3V output.

Thanks for the idea btw

Yeah, 6 terminals. Poles/throws are used to describe how those terminals are connected.

Teensy 2 is 5v unless modified for 3.3v (adding a regulator).

With the pro micros it's either one or the other, 5v/16mhz or 3.3v/8mhz. There is no easy way to modify the pro micros. You would have to desolder the regulator (tiny thing marked 'LG50')and put in a 3.3v one (LG33).

Igthorn wrote: Yeah, 6 terminals. Poles/throws are used to describe how those terminals are connected.

Teensy 2 is 5v unless modified for 3.3v (adding a regulator).

With the pro micros it's either one or the other, 5v/16mhz or 3.3v/8mhz. There is no easy way to modify the pro micros. You would have to desolder the regulator (tiny thing marked 'LG50')and put in a 3.3v one (LG33).

Ok thanks for the info. So there is no solution if I wanted to get both 5V and 3.3V from the teensy or the pro micro. Thinking of adding a NRF24L01 in the future when I have lerned more about this stuff. Seems like a good way to make keyboards wireless.

Got to remember that these old controllers expect 5v. So even if you an run at 3.3 you might not get that side of the chain to work.

Also, older boards take more power. I've never had anything that doesn't work on my notoriously stingy iPad's USB with Soarer's converter, not even my Model F XT, but wireless is all about power saving and wired keyboards aren't designed around that at all.

Muirium wrote: Got to remember that these old controllers expect 5v. So even if you an run at 3.3 you might not get that side of the chain to work.

Also, older boards take more power. I've never had anything that doesn't work on my notoriously stingy iPad's USB with Soarer's converter, not even my Model F XT, but wireless is all about power saving and wired keyboards aren't designed around that at all.

Ok, but if you keep the 5v on the board and have a seperate regulator for the 3.3V? That would work? The footprint would be greater, but in a IBM 122 it wouldn't be a problem(I think...).
But do anyone know how much power they need? Wouldn't a small Li-Po or Li-Ion battery be sufficent?

Depends how much typing you want to do before the battery dies…

http://deskthority.net/post169283.html#p169283

I suspect that one sucks so much power thanks to the way it does its "bitbanging". But its plausible these keyboards' original controllers draw up to 100 mA thanks to battery life being irrelevant to their design.

Muirium wrote: Depends how much typing you want to do before the battery dies…

http://deskthority.net/post169283.html#p169283

I suspect that one sucks so much power thanks to the way it does its "bitbanging". But its plausible these keyboards' original controllers draw up to 100 mA thanks to battery life being irrelevant to their design.

Ok, then a replacement controller would be awesome with wireless in mind.

@Soarer
I have a request.
If it's possible, it would be awesome in the macro function if you could give a command like PRINT "hello world" and the converter types all the letters inside the "".
This would make the macros much easier to make. For example I use airdroid when I want to connect to my phone and the code looks like this now:
And I do this for many "shortcut keys" on this converter. But i'm no programmer and don't know if it's possible.

Sincerely

i am guessing this will work with your code?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hot-New-Pro-M ... 5d408c1fe6

Yes, you can search for "Pro Micro" in this forum for a tutorial on that.

Hi guys ive just brought an (IBM Model M 1394116) was hoping it would be a quick cable switch an bam done but after some research and bumping on to this site ive realised theres may be a bit more work involved and i was hoping to get some help from you guys i think i need a Teensy and could use some help in identifying what i would need etc any information you guys could give me first hand would be great . thanks

ps i know there are RJ45 to PS2 converters if i can just one of those please let me know but could do with some info on which on e to buy an appologises again for being a bit useless < ultra new to this

this is the board brought from Ebay waiting on delievery at the min cant wait to clean it

http://imgur.com/uDlpbtq

i want that 1u tab key

some nice caps on that baby

andrewjoy wrote: i want that 1u tab key

some nice caps on that baby

ye i love the 24 F keys

i have a leading edge dc-2014. what does this keyboard reset pin do? its actually required? i made a soarers but looks like i need to butcher my keyboard's cable to get at the 5th pin for keyboard reset. poopy

I don't understand -- why would you have to butcher the cable? What kind of connector does it have? On a normal XT connector, the Reset signal should be on pin 3.



http://www.simandl.cz/stranky/elektro/k ... oard_a.htm

Reset isn't used by Soarer's Converter anyway. Just VCC, GND, DATA and CLOCK. Ignore it.

it says on OP that after v1.1, PD7 on teensy 2.0 is for reset signal for leading edge dc-2014. i was thinking just cut connector off cable because my din to usb cable adapter only has 4 wires. might as well cut keyboard connector off instead of trying to solder to the din xt pins on the keyboard connector. *shrug*

Fair enough, I never read that part!

Only cut things if you have to. Much harder to uncut…

betsingerb wrote: i was thinking just cut connector off cable because my din to usb cable adapter only has 4 wires. might as well cut keyboard connector off instead of trying to solder to the din xt pins on the keyboard connector. *shrug*

You mean din to ps/2 cable adapter, right? Alright, now I understand. Good luck! Others (?) seem to have the same problem:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=174 ... msg1494889

Muirium wrote: Reset isn't used by Soarer's Converter anyway. Just VCC, GND, DATA and CLOCK. Ignore it.

It is (since v1.1, according to the documentation). Post #1 in this thread says "required by some PC/XT keyboards", but doesn't really say whether the DC-2014 needs it. In any case, it's set to output/LOW when the converter starts and then set to input/HIGH some time later.

Hmm tried two different soarers converters with v1.12 and dc-2014 didn't work. Maybe I'll try v1.11. I used all 5 wires and everything. Do I need to modify any hex code to indicate what keyboard I'm using or something?