deskthority

Chyros wrote: And Mu; are you sure it would even register properly though? I have a feeling the computer would still think it's full ANSI and disregard the whole £ sign.

I'll let Findecanor answer this one, as he conveniently covered the same ground elsewhere today:

Findecanor wrote:

Loliplol wrote: This is what I made so far.

Spoiler:

Is that supposed to resemble UK layout? The keyboard does not decide which symbol goes on which key. Each key only has a "scancode" (or "usage code" in USB terminology). The user selects a keyboard layout in the OS - and that is what has the mapping from scancode to symbol. Therefore, for UK layout there can't be a key with both < and >. You need all three keys to the left of right Shift.

Macs are the same in this regard. As I wrote earlier, myself:

Muirium wrote: Also bear in mind the fundamental difference between ANSI and ISO. How do PCs handle trying to type in a German QWERTZ layout, while using an ANSI keyboard? On the Mac, you get hybrid layouts when you try that, like this:





ANSI-DE and ANSI-DK I presume! The orange keys are dead keys. You press them to engage a diacritical mode for the next character:



I'm guessing the basic layout switcheroo is universal (if not the dead keys) and you guys can do that too.

I can confirm, It works like a charm on Windows and Linux too, the layout is US-International with dead keys. I use it every day for the ü and ä and still have my nice ANSI

Hello, new to this forum. I got myself a 1987 model M from my dad (it was about to be throw to the garbage at his workplace) a few weeks back. It has a 5-pin DIN cable attached to it so I had to buy a ps/2 adapter to it. As soon as I installed it to my computer it worked like a charm (typing with it right now ). I doubt it was ever really used where it was for the last couple decades because of how good it looks and sounds. The key layout is nordic because it being used in Finland. I opened it up after buying a suitable nut driver and found out it was manufactured in the UK. The backside doesnt have any stickers on it as the US ones usually have.

I have no experience in dealing with these kind of keyboards but after reading in some stuff it seem these industrial models are fairly rare.

Uhhh, isn't 1387530 a Swedish rubber dome model? Oo

Anyway, welcome to DT .

Doesn't really matter in this case, the price is 90% case+sticker, 10% everything else.

Chyros wrote: Uhhh, isn't 1387530 a Swedish rubber dome model? Oo

Anyway, welcome to DT .

What does the label on the back of the case say?

He said there isn't a sticker on the back.

Engicoder wrote: He said there isn't a sticker on the back.

Oh, woops.

Chyros wrote: Uhhh, isn't 1387530 a Swedish rubber dome model? Oo

Anyway, welcome to DT .

This thing most certainly has buckling springs, but the model might be swedish though.

Finnish == swedish in keyboard layout terms

Nice board you've got there chwe!

Industrial = add £100 to the value. Nice find!

A vintage reed switch keyboard... Untested, no idea what it came from. Missing a keycap.

http://imgur.com/a/cKGzJ

I priced it high on eBay but left the "make an offer" feature open. I'd rather sell it here.

That's the oldest Key Tronic I've ever seen. It looks like it's from around 1970, judging by the chip numbers.

Nice crisp photos. The keycaps are banged up a bit, but I guess that's what you can expect for a loose uncased keyboard from 1970.

Any idea on price, then? Or is it one of those things that is "worth what someone will pay for it?"

Nice, switch rows like on my 1977 Key Tronic. But the switch is different.

Pretty difficult to put a value on those real oldies IMO.

I'd pay $40 for it, but I'm pretty cheap. (...almost as cheap as a Scotsman)

It's probably no use to anybody other than freakish collectors, so I wouldn't expect too much.

The cheap Scots devil on my shoulder has an opinion.

If it doesnae work wie modern gear…

The cheap Scots devil on my other shoulder reckons that's a fair point.

Ten bucks, but I'd still gripe about it!

Aren't Scottish devils always thinking about gear, one way or the other?

Looks like a nice board. Not sure what use I'd have for it, though, since I've recently shifted my interest to more practical keyboards.

mr_a500 wrote: It's probably no use to anybody other than freakish collectors...

Yeah that's me. I'd pay 40 for it too.

scottc wrote: ...since I've recently shifted my interest to more practical keyboards.

Very very wise decision, one I should make also.

Looks like $30 + Shipping is a fair price. I'll think about selling it... At a price that low, and with almost complete confidence that I'll never find one again, I might keep it in my collection.

That's the spirit. I'd like to see more pictures of the switch in the future if you keep it.

A good excuse to keep it! The obscure stuff is so often like that. The demand isn't there to give it a good value. But the supply isn't there to make it easily replaced.


@Scott and Seebart: That's one step away from "Why do I need more than one keyboard, anyway?" You Zen psychopaths.

The Scots devils know I need a new camera (10 years old = ISO 400, with enough noise that I'm not the only one to notice it) and a new phone aaaand Ellipse had to go and choose this winter for his Kish project.

Muirium wrote: @Scott and Seebart: That's one step away from "Why do I need more than one keyboard, anyway?" You Zen psychopaths

In my situation more like "how many more obscure keyboards can I store without it becoming a hassle".

This is mildly OT, so forgive me.

Muirium -- if you look into a camera I've had good luck with the Sony a6000. It can take all sorts of old manual focus lenses. Buying an old Canon FDn 50mm f1.4 lens and an adapter gets you unparalleled sharpness for 1/10th the price of modern "L" series glass.

Cameras are never off topic at DT.

I've got a bunch of decent Canon lenses (one L: the 200/2.8 telephoto) and have no interest in starting over from scratch. I'm in America in December and plan to look at Canon's mirrorless body in one of the many good camera shops I've discovered still exist there. (Britain lost both its photography chains a few years ago, so trying before you buy is nigh on bloody impossible now, and everything is seriously twice the price over here in Ripoff Britannia.) My old man has a 550D, at my advice, which runs circles around my 350D. My glass is good, but sensors have moved on enormously since 2005. Or indeed his 550.

How much do you guys think a full Pulse set minus the Colemak kit is worth? Sorry if this has been asked recently.

How about a DSA Skull Squadron full set? These sets seem quite difficult to price out. Just trying to gague what the community here would consider fair versus outrageous.

DSA Skull Squadron is awesome and I've been drooling after one for a while sooo ... 50$ ?

Muirium wrote: ... Canon's mirrorless body...

You're better off buying a small DSLR from Canon. Their mirrorless bodies aren't worth the loss of a proper viewfinder.

Sony and Nikon (who outsources sensor production to Sony) have superior sensors. That reduces the pain of having a screen-viewfinder as there is less ISO noise, etc.

Canon's mid-market specifications are in a dire place right now because their sensors are heinously outclassed.

seebart wrote: That's the spirit. I'd like to see more pictures of the switch in the future if you keep it.

It just sold for $120 + Shipping on fleaBay... So I took the opportunity to snap photos before it ships.

http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/ear ... 11946.html

How much would be a G80-1000HAD German set of thick Cherry doubleshots? And the whole board?
What about Wyse PCE US layout thin doubleshots? And again the whole board?
G80-3000HAD with PBT keycaps?
Terminal M's?

And something I'm just curious about
G80-0081, presumably the first G80 Model, with awesomely thick and colorful spherical keycaps and the original box?
Almost mint condition, just some yellowing on the white parts of the keycaps and rust on some bolts. Propably never going to work with your computer