deskthority

mike52787 wrote:

Hypersphere wrote: Does anyone here know if there is any other Alps keyboard with a layout like that of the Zenith 163-73 with a 1.5u Right Brace and 1.75u bottom-row mods? (See the pic below from the DT wiki):

Zenith_163-73.jpg

w/images/8/84/Zenith-163-73-Front.JPG

The ZKB-2 and the ZKB-2r have the same layout.

Thanks. I actually knew that -- i should have included the ZKB-2 and ZKB-2R along with the 163-73. Any others made by Zenith or any other company with this layout?

Apologies for the dumb question, but is there a list of ALPS compatible PCB's available somewhere?

qbadger wrote: Apologies for the dumb question, but is there a list of ALPS compatible PCB's available somewhere?

Are you referring to new PCBs, such as the Hasu Alps64 and ClueBoard for custom builds? It is also possible to desolder Matias-switch keyboards such as the KBP V60 or V80. Otherwise, for vintage Alps boards with SKCM/SKCL switches, there is a list in the DT wiki:

wiki/Category:Keyboards_with_Alps_SKCL/SKCM_switches

Yes - sorry I meant new ones. Thanks, the ClubBoard is cross-compatible between MX and ALPS, right? Hmmm, if so that's quite interesting!

qbadger wrote: Apologies for the dumb question, but is there a list of ALPS compatible PCB's available somewhere?

Minivan (40%)
Alps64(60%)
Clueboard(68%)
Leeku L3 AlpHas (a87 TKL)
Leeku 1800 (early version)(1800 layout)
Leeku 3000 (early version)(ansi 101/103/104/ISO)

Zenith Z-150 (100-1886) question -- These are reported to come with either dye-sub PBT or doubleshot keycaps. Are there outward signs for determining this? I am thinking of online listings that do not show the underside of a pulled cap. I am reluctant to ask sellers who have not already pulled a cap on an Alps-switch board to do so -- the last time I did this, the seller ended up snapping off the cap with the stem embedded in the slider.

mike52787 wrote:

qbadger wrote: Apologies for the dumb question, but is there a list of ALPS compatible PCB's available somewhere?

Minivan (40%)
Alps64(60%)
Clueboard(68%)
Leeku L3 AlpHas (a87 TKL)
Leeku 1800 (early version)(1800 layout)
Leeku 3000 (early version)(ansi 101/103/104/ISO)

Thanks! So Minivan also supports both ALPS and MX switches.

Hypersphere wrote: Zenith Z-150 (100-1886) question -- These are reported to come with either dye-sub PBT or doubleshot keycaps. Are there outward signs for determining this? I am thinking of online listings that do not show the underside of a pulled cap. I am reluctant to ask sellers who have not already pulled a cap on an Alps-switch board to do so -- the last time I did this, the seller ended up snapping off the cap with the stem embedded in the slider.

You can pretty easily tell from the yellowing, or if the shots are sharp enough from the contrast of the legends.

qbadger wrote:

mike52787 wrote:

qbadger wrote: Apologies for the dumb question, but is there a list of ALPS compatible PCB's available somewhere?

Minivan (40%)
Alps64(60%)
Clueboard(68%)
Leeku L3 AlpHas (a87 TKL)
Leeku 1800 (early version)(1800 layout)
Leeku 3000 (early version)(ansi 101/103/104/ISO)

Thanks! So Minivan also supports both ALPS and MX switches.

Atreus too!

Wasn't there a matias/Alps compatible Whitefox PCB option as well in the original GB? They may be floating around out there.

@qbadger

Infinity Ergodox
Plank/Quark (Full set of Matias keycaps available)
Let's Split (Full set of Matias keycaps available and in GB now!)
The Monarch (Made with apple keycaps in mind)

Can all be added to the alps compatible list. Also I think Whitefox was compatible

Ta.

So I just realised for full compatibility I need to check both PCB and plate, but luckily the ones discussed so far seem to satisfy both conditions.

Is the Let's Split GB this one? Not sure it includes switches and caps.

@qbadger
Thats the one, You can buy either the Acrylic Switchplate, PCB, or both. It doesn't include Keycaps or Switches sort of like just buying a switchplate and PCB from OLKB.com for the Plank which is what the Let's Split was derived from. I think all switchplates that work with Cherry style switches should be able to hold Alps and Matias brand switches.

Out of curiosity why are you asking, then I/we can give you the answer you actually need.

Well originally I was just curious about how easy it would be to swap out a MX switch with an Alps one - I'm in the M65A GB so thought to myself, "what do I need to swap out in order to use Alps switches instead of MX ones in the build?"
Now I highly doubt the PCB that's included in the GB would be compatible, but I'm wondering if the plate is also a problem (at the very least I will need to get some costar stabs?). I appreciate of course for planks the stabilised keys aren't an issue.

Remember that NTC I was talking about? Well... Didn't have luck... And the switches are filthy. Yuck...

Yech. Probably best to linearise that =o /.

Chyros wrote: Yech. Probably best to linearise that =o /.

But worn linear alps are worse than equally worn clicky/tactile alps, aren't they?
First.

Second:
Is this board rare with this badge?
NTC KB-6251EA

You mean, is the Cordata brand rare?

Lynx_Carpathica wrote:

Chyros wrote: Yech. Probably best to linearise that =o /.

But worn linear alps are worse than equally worn clicky/tactile alps, aren't they?
First.

Second:
Is this board rare with this badge?
NTC KB-6251EA

I've never seen that badge ever.

I'm sure the switches can come back. Take them apart and dust them, that will usually do it and if the top housings are still bad then you can wash/soak them in rubbing alcohol or soapy water. The irreparable damage comes when someone uses the switches when there like that. Coming from my old Taobao SKCL Green switches even after hours of work the top housings were still causing problems, the slider rail had physical damage/roughness. I think they got that way from use, the extra friction caused by all the contaminants permanently roughened the inside of the top housing. If they were never used the dust would be harmless, just sitting there.

There's at least one image of a Cordata keyboard out there, but I don't know if the internals are NTC KB-6251EA.
http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/cpthu ... f.jpg.html

Hypersphere wrote: There's at least one image of a Cordata keyboard out there, but I don't know if the internals are NTC KB-6251EA.

cordata2.jpg

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/cpthu ... f.jpg.html

Well... It looks like...

I think I have a program for my birthday.
The datamini is a kb-5161pt.

So it's done. I'm not that impressed with the resoults, it binds a bit, but the sound is not that bad. I'm gonna try lubing it sometime in the future.

I like dupont dry film for my alps. It works really well and is cheap.

You should never have to lube Alps. They're inherently very smooth switches, as long as they're clean and not heavily used.

Uhhhhhhhhhhh so who got these? SKCL Brown or possibly SKCL Striped Amber.

There's none left btw, but there is a Tandem G80-1191HPU

http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249215551
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232249216954
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248410073
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232248208848

Follow the discussion in Great find threads Two of the members here got the first two. I don't know for the second two. They are all SKCL Brown.

keycap wrote: You should never have to lube Alps. They're inherently very smooth switches, as long as they're clean and not heavily used.

They are clean, I've cleaned them with a soft toothbrush, under water (switch housing and slider). But they still bind, and are scratchy. So I have no other choice, but to lube.

keycap wrote: You should never have to lube Alps. They're inherently very smooth switches, as long as they're clean and not heavily used.

From what we know Alps SKCM blue were lubed by default in production.

seebart wrote:

keycap wrote: You should never have to lube Alps. They're inherently very smooth switches, as long as they're clean and not heavily used.

From what we know Alps SKCM blue were lubed by default in production.

But White wasn't. And possible made of Polyoximethilen, rather than something that's not that slippery. So, they wouldn't need lube. But they get stuck without it.