[IC] Model M Keyboard You-Do-It Kit
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
As part of the Electronics Plus warehouse cleanout I'm left with a large pile of Model M keyboards that need some love. It's more than I'll ever be able to realistically do myself.
Would there be any interest in a Model M You-Do-It kit? Here's what I think would be in the box:
Model M keyboard, and all keys. Possibly a terminal board.
Replacement controller.
Extra key caps.
Extra flippers and springs, maybe ten?
Replacement cable.
Screws for a screw mod.
Tools: socket for opening keyboard, drill bit for screw mod.
Denture tabs.
The idea is that you'd need to thoroughly clean the board yourself and do a bolt mod. In effect, you save some money by doing your own labor, and get to build your very own Model M out of it!
I think it's a nice middle ground between buying a really nice Model M, and needing to source all the parts to do a bolt mod yourself. Suggestions welcome!
Would there be any interest in a Model M You-Do-It kit? Here's what I think would be in the box:
Model M keyboard, and all keys. Possibly a terminal board.
Replacement controller.
Extra key caps.
Extra flippers and springs, maybe ten?
Replacement cable.
Screws for a screw mod.
Tools: socket for opening keyboard, drill bit for screw mod.
Denture tabs.
The idea is that you'd need to thoroughly clean the board yourself and do a bolt mod. In effect, you save some money by doing your own labor, and get to build your very own Model M out of it!
I think it's a nice middle ground between buying a really nice Model M, and needing to source all the parts to do a bolt mod yourself. Suggestions welcome!
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- Location: United states SC
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F 122/AT
- Main mouse: model o
- Favorite switch: Model f buckling spring
ok about the controllers I doubt they are all bad especially if they got time to dry out it is mainly the membranes that would be bad on these, I think for these if eillipse charged like 50c a spring fliper would have been good for an F ext project etc
- raoulduke-esq
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Current in the rotation: Silver Badge
- Main mouse: Magic Trackpad 2
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
That sounds really fun!
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- Location: Florida
- Main keyboard: 1391401
Any chance you could sell any of those Ms without the extra parts? If there are any 122s or other interesting part numbers I’d be interested.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
There is an art to balancing what's easy for me to do and what's useful for others.
The takeaway so far is that the repair kit could be neat but might be best served as a separate add-on part. I think it's perfect for folks embarking on their very first bolt mod and wanting a single source. I think back to my first bolt mod in 2011 and how daunting it was!
If anyone here remembers phosphorglow's Universal Model M controller they'll recall how awesome it was to have a low power, programmable controller that was a drop-in replacement for existing keyboards.
Membranes don't really go bad. They might get some rust in them if they've really been sitting in water. That's easy enough to clean when the board is all open for a bolt mod.
If you're extra dumb and manage to drill a hole straight through a Model M membrane (like I did!) repair is still possible. I used some clear mailing tape and some silver bearing solder paste to repair the membrane traces. Works great!
The takeaway so far is that the repair kit could be neat but might be best served as a separate add-on part. I think it's perfect for folks embarking on their very first bolt mod and wanting a single source. I think back to my first bolt mod in 2011 and how daunting it was!
If anyone here remembers phosphorglow's Universal Model M controller they'll recall how awesome it was to have a low power, programmable controller that was a drop-in replacement for existing keyboards.
Well, if the board is at the point of getting a bolt mod anyway, it's a good opportunity to check and refurbish everything.Jacobalbertus1 wrote: 05 Mar 2021, 05:26 ok about the controllers I doubt they are all bad especially if they got time to dry out it is mainly the membranes that would be bad on these
Membranes don't really go bad. They might get some rust in them if they've really been sitting in water. That's easy enough to clean when the board is all open for a bolt mod.
If you're extra dumb and manage to drill a hole straight through a Model M membrane (like I did!) repair is still possible. I used some clear mailing tape and some silver bearing solder paste to repair the membrane traces. Works great!
I think so too. Please tell him this yourself. Last I checked he was willing to do $1 each.Jacobalbertus1 wrote: 05 Mar 2021, 05:26 I think for these if eillipse charged like 50c a spring fliper would have been good for an F ext project etc
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- Location: Texas
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Model 130
- Main mouse: Logitech M-S48, Razer Viper
- Favorite switch: MX Browns
- DT Pro Member: -
On one hand I'd love a cheapish "normal" IBM M, on the other hand I have a couple M13s that I need to deal with...
I'm a lot better at collecting new projects than finishing old ones, but as such I'll watch this with interest.
I'm a lot better at collecting new projects than finishing old ones, but as such I'll watch this with interest.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
Lack of Model F flippers is why. I gave all of mine to lot_lizard and he’s just sitting on them. I’d really like them back.Hak Foo wrote: 06 Mar 2021, 03:53 Why not cross it with the FSSK/FEXT style projects? Since you're ripping up the board anyway, why not slide a new PCB in?
- hellothere
- Location: Mesa, AZ USA
- Main keyboard: Lots
- Main mouse: CST2545W-RC
- Favorite switch: TopreAlpsHallEffectTopreAlpsHallEffectTopreAlps
I rather like this. Couple things:
* Might be better with a pre-programmed and wired Soarer's Converter. Or just the Pro Micro.
* Link to step-by-step video instructions.
I wouldn't bother with the denture tabs. While I have a decent ultrasonic machine, you can clean both case and keycaps with a mild soap and a Mr. Clean eraser, both of which you can get in a grocery store. Or if you want to include the eraser, generic equivalents are about $10 for 50. Oh. A waning that a Mr. Clean eraser is a fine sandpaper, so don't go too nuts with it.
+1 on the extra flippers and springs. I don't think extra key caps are necessary.
While I have a decent drill, decent bench drill press, and decent rotary tool, when the bit from McMasters came in, I found NONE of these had a chuck that was small enough to fit that bit. That might be something to put in as a waning or note.
Oddly, I've owned at least a dozen Models M and I haven't yet done a bolt or screw mod. I currently have at least two that need it. One of those has a bad membrane. Really! The controller works fine in other Models M. I also need to find a Model M 122 barrel plate.
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I do like the idea of having a kit for Model F rebuilds, too. Maybe get with ellipse or orihalcon? I've bought bunches of springs and flippers from both. It'd also be great if you could buy the foam pre-cut. Doing this manually was one of the most annoying things about my F XT restore. The second was the realization that you really do need clamps. I bought a set of the cheapest plastic ones on Amazon and they still work after almost a year.
* Might be better with a pre-programmed and wired Soarer's Converter. Or just the Pro Micro.
* Link to step-by-step video instructions.
I wouldn't bother with the denture tabs. While I have a decent ultrasonic machine, you can clean both case and keycaps with a mild soap and a Mr. Clean eraser, both of which you can get in a grocery store. Or if you want to include the eraser, generic equivalents are about $10 for 50. Oh. A waning that a Mr. Clean eraser is a fine sandpaper, so don't go too nuts with it.
+1 on the extra flippers and springs. I don't think extra key caps are necessary.
While I have a decent drill, decent bench drill press, and decent rotary tool, when the bit from McMasters came in, I found NONE of these had a chuck that was small enough to fit that bit. That might be something to put in as a waning or note.
Oddly, I've owned at least a dozen Models M and I haven't yet done a bolt or screw mod. I currently have at least two that need it. One of those has a bad membrane. Really! The controller works fine in other Models M. I also need to find a Model M 122 barrel plate.
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I do like the idea of having a kit for Model F rebuilds, too. Maybe get with ellipse or orihalcon? I've bought bunches of springs and flippers from both. It'd also be great if you could buy the foam pre-cut. Doing this manually was one of the most annoying things about my F XT restore. The second was the realization that you really do need clamps. I bought a set of the cheapest plastic ones on Amazon and they still work after almost a year.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
I really think new controller is the way to go.hellothere wrote: 07 Mar 2021, 18:36 * Might be better with a pre-programmed and wired Soarer's Converter. Or just the Pro Micro.
There are plenty of really good resources out there. Not sure I could top some of the best videos on the topic. At least I could provide links.
Well, they cost next to nothing and work shockingly well.
Oh, that's a good point. Yeah the bit is really small. I would probably order these in bulk. Some really small bits have a hex shank, maybe that would be easier.hellothere wrote: 07 Mar 2021, 18:36 While I have a decent drill, decent bench drill press, and decent rotary tool, when the bit from McMasters came in, I found NONE of these had a chuck that was small enough to fit that bit. That might be something to put in as a waning or note.
Ellipse's pricing is prohibitively high. I hope you saw he's trying to sell a single non-working barrel for $27.99 shipped. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224198195531 . Ridiculous.hellothere wrote: 07 Mar 2021, 18:36 I do like the idea of having a kit for Model F rebuilds, too. Maybe get with ellipse or orihalcon? [...]
For a Model M conversion with an FEXT board, no foam is required.
- pr0ximity
- Location: Maine, USA
- Main keyboard: Anything linear with Cherry caps
- Main mouse: Microsoft WMO 1.1A
- Favorite switch: IBM Beamspring (metal chassis)
- DT Pro Member: 0173
Very cool idea! I'll be refurbing a new-to-me Model F AT this summer, wouldn't mind throwing an M in the mix while I'm at it!
- hellothere
- Location: Mesa, AZ USA
- Main keyboard: Lots
- Main mouse: CST2545W-RC
- Favorite switch: TopreAlpsHallEffectTopreAlpsHallEffectTopreAlps
I went through his website and e-mailed him, too. The spring w/flipper and barrels are both $1 each. IIRC, he dropped the shipping charge, either completely or by a bit, because I bought a whole bunch.XMIT wrote: 08 Mar 2021, 01:03 Ellipse's pricing is prohibitively high. I hope you saw he's trying to sell a single non-working barrel for $27.99 shipped. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224198195531 . Ridiculous.
I've seen his ebay ads for the QC-rejected barrels before. I wouldn't pay that.