Hi,
I recently bought two model Ms for super cheap, but they are a bit banged up. One has a few sticking/scratchy keys and the other feels...for a lack of a better word - loose on the inside. (no rattle from loose rivets, but the inside assembly is noticeably shifting when I tilt the board)
Is there some wiki on how to disassemble and/or repair Ms? Maybe someone did a really good series of Youtube tutorials?
Model M maintenance wiki/info?
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- Location: Czech Republic
- Main keyboard: BTC 5169
- Main mouse: CZC GM600
- Contact:
- digital_matthew
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Ellipse Model F62
- Main mouse: It's a Secret.
- Favorite switch: Capacative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Clicky Keyboards has some good videos. It's a pretty straight-forward board to work on; I've cleaned and restored a few of them. You'll need a 5.5mm nut driver to take off the four screws on the bottom-back of the board. That will let you open the case. Keys can be removed by hand or more conveniently with a keycap puller. The sticking/scratchy keys may be caused by crushed springs or crud in the key barrel. The looseness of the other one may be due to the barrel assembly not being mounted correctly in the case. Good luck!
- Quartz64
- Location: Russia
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Contoured (Kailh Box Black, Koala)
- Main mouse: Elecom Huge
- Favorite switch: Durock Koala
- DT Pro Member: 0253
- Contact:
IBM Modifications and Maintenance Wiki on Reddit
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- Location: Czech Republic
- Main keyboard: BTC 5169
- Main mouse: CZC GM600
- Contact:
Thank you both!
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- Location: Czech Republic
- Main keyboard: BTC 5169
- Main mouse: CZC GM600
- Contact:
Damn, I thought I'd open them up today, but then: one of them had a broken barrel (piece broke off, no crack) and the nut driver I bought was too thick to fit in the holes. -__-
Another day, I guess.
Another day, I guess.
- digital_matthew
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Ellipse Model F62
- Main mouse: It's a Secret.
- Favorite switch: Capacative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I should have warned you about the nut driver not fitting; that is a common problem. Here is the link to the one I bought. I don't know if it's available where you are.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G2 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G2 ... UTF8&psc=1
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- Location: Czech Republic
- Main keyboard: BTC 5169
- Main mouse: CZC GM600
- Contact:
Hey, no worries, just got a new one that should fit.digital_matthew wrote: 26 Dec 2020, 22:15 I should have warned you about the nut driver not fitting; that is a common problem. Here is the link to the one I bought. I don't know if it's available where you are.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G2 ... UTF8&psc=1

Side note - is it known what kind of plastic the barrel plate is made of? I bought some random instaglue, but it might not be appropriate. (says "not for PE, PP, PTFE, PVC")
Might need to get epoxy, as I saw that mentioned in other repairs.
(in the worst case I'll buy a new plate from Unicomp and have the broken one to practice my drilling with)
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
The actual screw head is 7/32" and 5.5mm works also, but a socket must be "long" and "thin-walled" or the socket of a nut driver must be similarly thin-sided.
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- Location: Czech Republic
- Main keyboard: BTC 5169
- Main mouse: CZC GM600
- Contact:
Yeah, I got this one (someone else linked it on DTin the past) from Conrad:
https://www.conrad.com/p/ck-workshop-so ... 125-828125?
And it works fine.
https://www.conrad.com/p/ck-workshop-so ... 125-828125?
And it works fine.