NEC APC-H412 restoration process and review

User avatar
Brutal

17 Aug 2019, 00:36

A few weeks back, a friend of mine told me that he had a 'very heavy keyboard with a strange circle connector' in his basement after I told him about my Unicomp Model M being considerably heavier than most modern gaming boards. I was rather intrigued by this, and a week or so later I came over his house to check it out. When he showed me it, I was rather shocked by it's condition. It was yellowed to hell, dirty as hell, and had a horrific key feel.
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I remember thinking to myself "This keyboard binds worse than any board I have tried before," but after feeling the F keys, I knew it had to just be really dirty, as the F keys actually felt really nice, and had no binding issues whatsoever. I asked him if he would mind if I took it home, and he really didn't care for it. After opening it up, thankfully it only had 6 screws holding it together, I was bombarded with dirt, corrosion, dust, and hairs. This is what it looked like after I had cleaned it all up. All the spots and scratches were the corrosion bits.
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After cleaning it, I decided to also do some retrobrite, as the keyboard was so yellow it looked more like a week old banana than a pleasing grey. For the caps, I used a pot filled with water and 3% hydrogen peroxide heated to 150 degrees for about 8 hours total. While they are still not perfect, I didn't see much more changing after the 7 hour point so I decided to just stop there. They keyboard case was put outside in a bin filled with the same solution. This was only outside for about 5 hours and looked great when I was finished with it, though it too was still yellowed, however it matched the keycaps almost perfectly so I just let it be. This was the end result.
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While all that was happening, I plugged the bare board with the switches (which are NEC blue oval clicky switches) and ran a test. Unfortunately nearly all the F keys didn't fire, some of the alpha keys didn't work consistently, and the numpad was going crazy, constantly typing random garbage. After looking at the board, there was a lot of corrosion on the back potentially causing shorts, especially on the numpad. After cleaning all the corrosion, the F keys (except for F8) and the numpad started working again. However, the aforementioned F8 key and some of the alpha keys still failed to work. I noticed that the B key would fire constantly when pressed for a minute or so, but when I pulled it up it would stop, this also seemed to apply to the other non-working keys, just at a higher extent. This led me to clean the switches. Unfortunately, the switches are basically impossible to disassemble without breaking them as they are riveted shut. Instead, I used contact cleaner and sprayed the key all over and pressed it very fast to try and clean any debris, by some miracle this worked. This, however, didn't solve the bad binding and overly scratchy feel of the switch very much, so I did a test of lubricating the slider to see if that made a difference. It did, and now the keys I applied the lube to started to feel like the F keys. After I fixed the whole board and lubed the switches up, it was time for final assembly. This is a quick YouTube video of the typing demo -
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kbLj9N2684[/youtube]
So far, I have spent about a day using this keyboard in it's current state, and it's quite nice. First of all, the caps are very nice double shot ABS, with this strange grey lettering over a more clear black lettering.
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The keycaps are sculptured while also being at an angle, and are nicely spaced. All in all the form doesn't feel awkward or strange by any means.
The casing is of similar quality, it is rather thick and not too plastic-y. The build quality is shown by the fact this keyboard barely flexes at all. Ultimately, it feels like a well made product.
The switches are also very nice, though they are not perfect. On the good side, the click they offer is quite prominent and feels natural while not being too overly tactile. They produce a nice deep and satisfying sound that makes these fun to listen to. The space bar especially to me sounds awesome, with a really deep and shouting THUMP that rattles the whole back plate. Speaking of the back plate, it does in fact ping pretty loudly but to me it just adds to the keyboard's soundtrack. The switches are a bit stiff but are otherwise nicely weighted, not too heavy in which your fingers hurt when typing, but not too light where you'd think you would actuate the switches just by resting on them. However, you'd be wrong to think that you wouldn't be able to actuate these by resting your fingers on them, as they actuate way before the tactile click, and can be easily actuated without even going up to the tactile bump. Despite that, this keyboard is really nice to type on, and is definitely going to be on the top of my list when it comes to deciding which keyboard I want to use that day.

For a free board, this one is really nice, and I am happy to have restored it to (almost) it's original glory. Thanks for reading, let me know what you think of this board if you've tried it before, or any questions you may have about it.

User avatar
Noodle

17 Aug 2019, 02:49

I have one of these - it was one of the first vintage mechs I picked up. They're superb boards, but they real don't lend themselves to self-servicing. Currently my board is sitting in a box with a bunch of spare parts from a donor board and is awaiting a proper restoration. If you need some spare switches, I could hook you up.

Also, you might have gone a bit overboard with the retrobrite on the caps. I know the alpha caps are supposed to have lighter legends, but I don't think they're supposed to be that light.

User avatar
Brutal

17 Aug 2019, 22:50

Noodle wrote: 17 Aug 2019, 02:49 I have one of these - it was one of the first vintage mechs I picked up. They're superb boards, but they real don't lend themselves to self-servicing. Currently my board is sitting in a box with a bunch of spare parts from a donor board and is awaiting a proper restoration. If you need some spare switches, I could hook you up.

Also, you might have gone a bit overboard with the retrobrite on the caps. I know the alpha caps are supposed to have lighter legends, but I don't think they're supposed to be that light.
I agree with you on the legends, I think the photo makes them look brighter than they actually are, but they are still a bit brighter than they should. Also, thank you for the offer on the switches. The lubricated sliders makes these work as they should from what I can tell, so I don't think I will be needing any spares. This one is actually my first vintage board, if you ignore my Unicomp Model M. I am really pleased with it! I hope your restoration goes well.

User avatar
Polecat

18 Aug 2019, 01:15

I have one of these also, in original, unrestored condition at present. Mine would not work correctly on a blue cube or Radio Shack USB converter, but works fine as native PS/2. I haven't yet tried it on the Soarers, but I suspect it will work there as my other "problem" keyboards have. Thanks for the notes on lubing. I generally don't like to lube any switches, since it's difficult to impossible to undo if you make a mistake. I have almost no personal experience in doing this, so I appreciate any and all good info.

edit: Sorry, just looked it up in my notes, and my NEC works fine on the blue cube, I was confusing it with a couple other keyboards I tried before I bought the Soarers.

User avatar
Brutal

18 Aug 2019, 17:44

Polecat wrote: 18 Aug 2019, 01:15 I have one of these also, in original, unrestored condition at present. Mine would not work correctly on a blue cube or Radio Shack USB converter, but works fine as native PS/2. I haven't yet tried it on the Soarers, but I suspect it will work there as my other "problem" keyboards have. Thanks for the notes on lubing. I generally don't like to lube any switches, since it's difficult to impossible to undo if you make a mistake. I have almost no personal experience in doing this, so I appreciate any and all good info.

edit: Sorry, just looked it up in my notes, and my NEC works fine on the blue cube, I was confusing it with a couple other keyboards I tried before I bought the Soarers.
Something that I found out from lubing is that if you just lubricate the slider, the effects are usually pretty good and rather easily reversible. I lubed my Model M's sliders and the key feel is significantly smoother. I tried lubing the spring on the scroll lock key as I heard someone else had good results with it, but I found it changed the key feel for the worse and ruined the sound. I found that by spraying the lubed area with plastic safe contact cleaner, it actually cleans off the lubricant quite well. On a similar note, when trying to remove some lube off the stabilizers for my custom keyboard, I accidentally removed the factory lube off the switch with the contact cleaner and it went from a tactile switch to a clicky switch, so I had to swap it out with an extra. So be careful with contact cleaner on factory lubed switches if you ever use contact cleaner. I hope this information helps!

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