The Not So Space Saving Keyboard Thread!
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- Location: Italy
- DT Pro Member: -
Just finished the epoxy job on my Model M, success!
It's a bit bigger than a standard SSK, definitely cheaper, and a lot could be done chopping more here and there, but I'm not going to venture past this first chop job.
Still a lot to be done, took some guts to start, but the worst part is over, hopefully.
It's a bit bigger than a standard SSK, definitely cheaper, and a lot could be done chopping more here and there, but I'm not going to venture past this first chop job.
Still a lot to be done, took some guts to start, but the worst part is over, hopefully.
Last edited by andrea-i on 21 Dec 2018, 14:06, edited 3 times in total.
- ThePillenwerfer
- Location: Yorkshire, England.
- Main keyboard: IBM KB-8926
- Main mouse: Unbranded optical PS/2.
- Favorite switch: Blue Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Nice job, though I'd prefer to get rid of the nav keys you've kept and move the num pad across. The beauty of doing things yourself is you get what you want.
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- Location: Italy
- DT Pro Member: -
That would be my ideal layout too, even better if the num pad has 3 columns like that of the F77, but, a job like that would require a lot more work in getting the chopping right and I'm not even sure what should be done with the membrane layers.
In the case of a tkl or a 60% (there's a few around called happy buckling : ), the membrane can be folded or cut and then easily taped with copper.
- Quartz64
- Location: Russia
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Contoured (Kailh Box Black, Koala)
- Main mouse: Elecom Huge
- Favorite switch: Durock Koala
- DT Pro Member: 0253
- Contact:
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- Location: Italy
- DT Pro Member: -
Cutting my beloved M and putting it back together was the scary part, that's what I meant : D
The rest is just painful, but not much in the way of surprises...actually, the screw-mod might be annoying too.
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- Location: Italy
- DT Pro Member: -
All chops done, seams sanded flush, screw mod done, all is ready for the paint job!
I just used it on my bathroom, might sound funny and a bit inconsiderate, but the stuff is top notch!
It's made to be resistant, thin, perfect coverage of color on any underlying color...and as it turns out, works great on plastic too.
I've pigmented it with some resin colors I had, but I'm not happy with that color yet.
I won't try and match industrial gray, but I want this to be more green-ish.
I can still see a lot of sanding scratches, I'm hoping a lighter sand beforehand and another light sand before second coat will make everything smooth and hopefully still keep some texture.
I did an experiment with a water-based resin for floors.I just used it on my bathroom, might sound funny and a bit inconsiderate, but the stuff is top notch!
It's made to be resistant, thin, perfect coverage of color on any underlying color...and as it turns out, works great on plastic too.
I've pigmented it with some resin colors I had, but I'm not happy with that color yet.
I won't try and match industrial gray, but I want this to be more green-ish.
I can still see a lot of sanding scratches, I'm hoping a lighter sand beforehand and another light sand before second coat will make everything smooth and hopefully still keep some texture.
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- Location: Italy
- DT Pro Member: -
Freshly bathroom-resin-coated : D
(read previous post for an explanation) The texture comes from applying the resin by gently pushing the tip of the brush against the surface at a 90 degree angle, rather than brush-stroking.
This is just the first coat and the finish is pretty good already, tomorrow I'll finish the whole thing, it dries pretty fast and than needs to properly set for a few more days.
(read previous post for an explanation) The texture comes from applying the resin by gently pushing the tip of the brush against the surface at a 90 degree angle, rather than brush-stroking.
This is just the first coat and the finish is pretty good already, tomorrow I'll finish the whole thing, it dries pretty fast and than needs to properly set for a few more days.
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- Location: Spain
- Main keyboard: Monoprice Blade
- Main mouse: Wacom INTUOS
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX red
- DT Pro Member: 0241
Y had a doubt about "epoxy-painting" an old broken chasis I have for a future project. This looks great and I'm happy to see it works as expected.andrea-i wrote: Freshly bathroom-resin-coated : D
(read previous post for an explanation) The texture comes from applying the resin by gently pushing the tip of the brush against the surface at a 90 degree angle, rather than brush-stroking.
This is just the first coat and the finish is pretty good already, tomorrow I'll finish the whole thing, it dries pretty fast and than needs to properly set for a few more days.
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- Location: Spain
- Main keyboard: Monoprice Blade
- Main mouse: Wacom INTUOS
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX red
- DT Pro Member: 0241
Excelso wrote:I had a doubt about "epoxy-painting" an old broken chasis I have for a future project. This looks great and I'm happy to see it works as expected.andrea-i wrote: Freshly bathroom-resin-coated : D
(read previous post for an explanation) The texture comes from applying the resin by gently pushing the tip of the brush against the surface at a 90 degree angle, rather than brush-stroking.
This is just the first coat and the finish is pretty good already, tomorrow I'll finish the whole thing, it dries pretty fast and than needs to properly set for a few more days.
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- Location: Italy
- DT Pro Member: -
After some serious wrestling to perform the screw mod, a total recolor of the case because the whole resin pot did dry on me before the last touches.
After a few broken traces on the membranes, probably due to me fiddling during the screw mod.
So, after a *lot* of screw ups, it's finally done.
Funny thing is, while my M was unusable, I switched to a replacement cherry 1800 with vintage cherry blacks I had but never really used before. And now, I'm so used to those delicate vintage blacks and the awesome 1800 compact layout that I don't feel like switching back my "new" NotSoSpaceSaver!
Oh life is strange : )
I leave you with the photos:
After a few broken traces on the membranes, probably due to me fiddling during the screw mod.
So, after a *lot* of screw ups, it's finally done.
Funny thing is, while my M was unusable, I switched to a replacement cherry 1800 with vintage cherry blacks I had but never really used before. And now, I'm so used to those delicate vintage blacks and the awesome 1800 compact layout that I don't feel like switching back my "new" NotSoSpaceSaver!
Oh life is strange : )
I leave you with the photos:
- digital_matthew
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Ellipse Model F62
- Main mouse: It's a Secret.
- Favorite switch: Capacative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Inspiring and beautiful. I'd like to tackle this myself one day, especially when Ellipse releases his MOPAR keys.
Nice "mint" colourway, works well with the black badge. I really like these well executed mods, IBM cases are perfect for it due to its design.
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- Location: Italy
- DT Pro Member: -
eheh thanks for the advice on how to get rid of it, OldIsNew : D
To be honest guys, it's absolutely not as clean as it looks from the photos, it is still a garage job and once you have it in your hands you can tell.
Thing is, if one is to do such jobs for oneself, then it's totally worth it, the end result is something that ends up being very personal, this is my M and it's unique now : )
I think in order to make it "perfect", one would have to butcher at least a couple of those to get skilled enough with the screw or bolt mod and membrane mods.
To be honest guys, it's absolutely not as clean as it looks from the photos, it is still a garage job and once you have it in your hands you can tell.
Thing is, if one is to do such jobs for oneself, then it's totally worth it, the end result is something that ends up being very personal, this is my M and it's unique now : )
I think in order to make it "perfect", one would have to butcher at least a couple of those to get skilled enough with the screw or bolt mod and membrane mods.