UPDATE: Speeds are probably safe
- abrahamstechnology
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Laser with SMK Cherry mount
- Main mouse: Mitsumi ECM-S3902
- Favorite switch: Alps and Alps clones
- DT Pro Member: 0212
I have a Razer Blackwidow chassis that I am using for a custom project with Speed Bronze switches. I got all the switches soldered and I popped on a random Tai-Hao cap that I had gotten by mistake in an Alps set. However, the keycap went on very tight, and to my horror there were stretch marks on the keycap mount!
Looking at the Speed Bronze stems, I see nubs on them, too! They are smaller than the BOX switches and right at the ends of the cross mount, but they are still there.
I am at complete disbelief of Kailh's utter incompetence. They make such great switches ruined by a stupid error they refuse to fix.
I am never buying anything Kailh-made again. It's a shame that I am forced to use Cherry's horrid rattletrap clicky switch design if I want MX-compatible clickies, but at least they don't destroy keycaps.
(I will post photos later, I cant right now)
Looking at the Speed Bronze stems, I see nubs on them, too! They are smaller than the BOX switches and right at the ends of the cross mount, but they are still there.
I am at complete disbelief of Kailh's utter incompetence. They make such great switches ruined by a stupid error they refuse to fix.
I am never buying anything Kailh-made again. It's a shame that I am forced to use Cherry's horrid rattletrap clicky switch design if I want MX-compatible clickies, but at least they don't destroy keycaps.
(I will post photos later, I cant right now)
Last edited by abrahamstechnology on 15 Oct 2018, 14:37, edited 2 times in total.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
YES they're utter morons BUT I just replaced the key-caps with el-cheapo versions bought off Flebay, so now all the GMK's, BSP's and even SP's are all safe on 'lesser' keyboards.
Just am so addicted to the BOX's that they would have to pry my cold-dead fingers away from my Navy's when I die. Refuse to ever give them up.
Their 'clickiness' is what still has me there using them, nothing else comes close (except $800+ brand new Blue Alps).
- abrahamstechnology
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Laser with SMK Cherry mount
- Main mouse: Mitsumi ECM-S3902
- Favorite switch: Alps and Alps clones
- DT Pro Member: 0212
UPDATE: I MAY HAVE OVERREACTED
The Tai-Hao keycap may have been the only one with stretching issues. I tried several other keycaps I have around and they all seem fine. It may be just because Tai-Hao keycaps are cheap (the Alps stabiliser mounts on them stretch quite a bit as well)
Still, I'm going to stick to other manufacturers from now on, just to be safe.
The Tai-Hao keycap may have been the only one with stretching issues. I tried several other keycaps I have around and they all seem fine. It may be just because Tai-Hao keycaps are cheap (the Alps stabiliser mounts on them stretch quite a bit as well)
Still, I'm going to stick to other manufacturers from now on, just to be safe.
- chuckdee
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Clueboard/RS Ver.B
- Main mouse: Logitech g900
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0151
I've used Speed Copper on a variety of switches (really like them) and never seen any problems. Just took GMK Red Samurai off a board, and there were no problems evident.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
Actually can't tell the difference between the Bronze or Copper models at all

The Gold model has a distinctly different click sound (muted) compared to the loudness of the Bronze and Copper versions.
- chuckdee
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: Clueboard/RS Ver.B
- Main mouse: Logitech g900
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: 0151
I actually haven't compared to Bronze, though Bronze is supposed to be clicky also, isn't it? Copper has a nice feel to me, though I haven't compared them to any other.
- Myoth
- Location: Strasbourg
- Main keyboard: IDB60
- Main mouse: EC1-A
- Favorite switch: Cap BS
- DT Pro Member: -
Speed switches are definitely fine, the only problem with them is the fact that they actuate before the click.abrahamstechnology wrote: I have a Razer Blackwidow chassis that I am using for a custom project with Speed Bronze switches. I got all the switches soldered and I popped on a random Tai-Hao cap that I had gotten by mistake in an Alps set. However, the keycap went on very tight, and to my horror there were stretch marks on the keycap mount!
Looking at the Speed Bronze stems, I see nubs on them, too! They are smaller than the BOX switches and right at the ends of the cross mount, but they are still there.
I am at complete disbelief of Kailh's utter incompetence. They make such great switches ruined by a stupid error they refuse to fix.
I am never buying anything Kailh-made again. It's a shame that I am forced to use Cherry's horrid rattletrap clicky switch design if I want MX-compatible clickies, but at least they don't destroy keycaps.
(I will post photos later, I cant right now)
I have a keyboard I used OG Cherry on for months and they're as tight as other OG Cherry I had.
- Elrick
- Location: Swan View, AUSTRALIA
- Main keyboard: Alps - As much as Possible.
- Main mouse: MX518
- Favorite switch: Navy Switch, ALPs, Model-M
- DT Pro Member: -
The Speeds would be strictly for 'Gamers' only because you know how they are - they need to just be touching the switch for it to work during any session.
That is why I still love my BOX Navy's because those babies need a firm push to actuate every time.
- IronSunsetscales
- Location: Denderleeuw, Belgium
- Main keyboard: Keychron Q1/Tecsee Sapphire/SA Calm Depths
- Main mouse: Trust 23507
- DT Pro Member: -
I do have an assortment of kailh switches, and my findings so far are:
Speed bronze: all fine, I found no stretched stems on either Tai-Hao nor SP sets
Pro heavy sage: Same here, all is fine, no problems
Speed pink: no issues here either
Box whites: tight, but no cracking
Box navy: Tai-Hao caps are utterly destroyed, SP caps are usable still, yet loose
Box jade: also destroyed the Tai-Hao caps completely, SP caps are even looser when they come off these
To my findings, the real issue here is with the box type of switches, as they were build to a different standard.
Now, there are new runs of the box switch series, and they still seem to have issues. You do want to sit back and wait for the box types to get properly "fixed".
Speed bronze: all fine, I found no stretched stems on either Tai-Hao nor SP sets
Pro heavy sage: Same here, all is fine, no problems
Speed pink: no issues here either
Box whites: tight, but no cracking
Box navy: Tai-Hao caps are utterly destroyed, SP caps are usable still, yet loose
Box jade: also destroyed the Tai-Hao caps completely, SP caps are even looser when they come off these
To my findings, the real issue here is with the box type of switches, as they were build to a different standard.
Now, there are new runs of the box switch series, and they still seem to have issues. You do want to sit back and wait for the box types to get properly "fixed".
- abrahamstechnology
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Laser with SMK Cherry mount
- Main mouse: Mitsumi ECM-S3902
- Favorite switch: Alps and Alps clones
- DT Pro Member: 0212
I was the one who discovered that when my Wyse was destroyed. And please stop commenting on my posts.IronSunsetscales wrote: I do have an assortment of kailh switches, and my findings so far are:
Speed bronze: all fine, I found no stretched stems on either Tai-Hao nor SP sets
Pro heavy sage: Same here, all is fine, no problems
Speed pink: no issues here either
Box whites: tight, but no cracking
Box navy: Tai-Hao caps are utterly destroyed, SP caps are usable still, yet loose
Box jade: also destroyed the Tai-Hao caps completely, SP caps are even looser when they come off these
To my findings, the real issue here is with the box type of switches, as they were build to a different standard.
Now, there are new runs of the box switch series, and they still seem to have issues. You do want to sit back and wait for the box types to get properly "fixed".
- abrahamstechnology
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Laser with SMK Cherry mount
- Main mouse: Mitsumi ECM-S3902
- Favorite switch: Alps and Alps clones
- DT Pro Member: 0212
Yes, I think the best course of action is to plier-mod BOX switches. It makes them a bit too lose but that is easily fixed with a bit of garbage bag or plastic wrap.
- IronSunsetscales
- Location: Denderleeuw, Belgium
- Main keyboard: Keychron Q1/Tecsee Sapphire/SA Calm Depths
- Main mouse: Trust 23507
- DT Pro Member: -
I noticed, and I'm sorry that happened to you. My information was posted (along with yours) to share with other readers on this forum. Leave your hate at home, I did nothing wrong to you.abrahamstechnology wrote:I was the one who discovered that when my Wyse was destroyed. And please stop commenting on my posts.IronSunsetscales wrote: I do have an assortment of kailh switches, and my findings so far are:
Speed bronze: all fine, I found no stretched stems on either Tai-Hao nor SP sets
Pro heavy sage: Same here, all is fine, no problems
Speed pink: no issues here either
Box whites: tight, but no cracking
Box navy: Tai-Hao caps are utterly destroyed, SP caps are usable still, yet loose
Box jade: also destroyed the Tai-Hao caps completely, SP caps are even looser when they come off these
To my findings, the real issue here is with the box type of switches, as they were build to a different standard.
Now, there are new runs of the box switch series, and they still seem to have issues. You do want to sit back and wait for the box types to get properly "fixed".
- abrahamstechnology
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Laser with SMK Cherry mount
- Main mouse: Mitsumi ECM-S3902
- Favorite switch: Alps and Alps clones
- DT Pro Member: 0212
You are the one trying to provoke a fight. I'm not.IronSunsetscales wrote:I noticed, and I'm sorry that happened to you. My information was posted (along with yours) to share with other readers on this forum. Leave your hate at home, I did nothing wrong to you.abrahamstechnology wrote:I was the one who discovered that when my Wyse was destroyed. And please stop commenting on my posts.IronSunsetscales wrote: I do have an assortment of kailh switches, and my findings so far are:
Speed bronze: all fine, I found no stretched stems on either Tai-Hao nor SP sets
Pro heavy sage: Same here, all is fine, no problems
Speed pink: no issues here either
Box whites: tight, but no cracking
Box navy: Tai-Hao caps are utterly destroyed, SP caps are usable still, yet loose
Box jade: also destroyed the Tai-Hao caps completely, SP caps are even looser when they come off these
To my findings, the real issue here is with the box type of switches, as they were build to a different standard.
Now, there are new runs of the box switch series, and they still seem to have issues. You do want to sit back and wait for the box types to get properly "fixed".
- IronSunsetscales
- Location: Denderleeuw, Belgium
- Main keyboard: Keychron Q1/Tecsee Sapphire/SA Calm Depths
- Main mouse: Trust 23507
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh am I? after you've been name calling me 5 times, I'm the provoker? Do I need to remind you of the other topic? As I said before, I'm here to help people with this hobby just like you.
- abrahamstechnology
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Laser with SMK Cherry mount
- Main mouse: Mitsumi ECM-S3902
- Favorite switch: Alps and Alps clones
- DT Pro Member: 0212
I never called you names, I asked a question about a profile picture, then stated my reasons for asking.