How to assemble a model F? (PLEASE)
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi, I just bought an XT some days ago. Everything okay, bottom row wasn't clicking even with the foam intact, so I removed the front plate and painted it, bought a 3mm EVA sheet and cleaned all the other stuff.
I can't fucking put all togheter again, it just don't go in. PLEASE let me know if there is any video or something explaining how the fuck assemble it. The tabs are the main problem and I'm starting to damage the spacebar and barrels.
I never felt so angry in my whole life, I hate it so much and be writting in a BS keyboard right now isn't helping so much.
I can't fucking put all togheter again, it just don't go in. PLEASE let me know if there is any video or something explaining how the fuck assemble it. The tabs are the main problem and I'm starting to damage the spacebar and barrels.
I never felt so angry in my whole life, I hate it so much and be writting in a BS keyboard right now isn't helping so much.
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Planck
- Main mouse: Cyborg Rat 7
- Favorite switch: Alps skcm white
- DT Pro Member: -
ok you will need lots of clamps or locking pliers, basically anything that can clamp down with force, use kitchen towel on the jaws of the clamps to reduce damage to the metal plates. I used 4 clamps and 4 locking pliers spread over both sides close to where the tabs are then you want a wooden mallet to gently tap the plate until the tabs are fully in place. Be very careful and only clamp whilst the keyboard is in a horisontal position to avoid damage to the delicate flippers inside.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I use a long furniture clamp to slide the plates back together. The more clamps the better along the sides. Yes, you will probably mar your lovely new paint job, that you are so proud of, with the side clamps.
3mm is quite thick for foam. I use art foam that starts out about 1.5mm (1/16") thick and fairly firm but compresses nicely under the barrel bases. The thicker the foam, the more it resists your attempts to re-assemble. Do not be afraid to manhandle it with brute force. With luck, it will remain the way you leave it for many years.

3mm is quite thick for foam. I use art foam that starts out about 1.5mm (1/16") thick and fairly firm but compresses nicely under the barrel bases. The thicker the foam, the more it resists your attempts to re-assemble. Do not be afraid to manhandle it with brute force. With luck, it will remain the way you leave it for many years.

- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
I did it! Unfortunately the spacebar isn't working but I'll take care latter. One more question:

PD: sorry fohat, I made the picture after saw your comment.
Seriously, thanks. Love you all.

PD: sorry fohat, I made the picture after saw your comment.
Seriously, thanks. Love you all.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Planck
- Main mouse: Cyborg Rat 7
- Favorite switch: Alps skcm white
- DT Pro Member: -
np, glad that you were able to finally get it back together again, now you know how to do it then you can hopefully fix the spacebar later as it is the one thing that is problematic due to how the stabiliser is mounted behind the barrel plate.
Hopefully this should be useful when you attempt the spacebar fix
workshop-f7/model-f-improvement-dis-ass ... t6982.html
Hopefully this should be useful when you attempt the spacebar fix
workshop-f7/model-f-improvement-dis-ass ... t6982.html
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
Most keys works even better than it was with the original foam. I got two new problems:
1- The 3mm EVA sheet is too tick and I can't use it without pull out the feets (isn't really a problem, I would use them anyway).
2- Two keys are not working properly. One has an loose spring and the other an out of phase spring. I already fixed a similar issue with my model M spacebar so is just pattience.
I'll do a external stabilizer for my spacebar, but not today because I have things to do.
1- The 3mm EVA sheet is too tick and I can't use it without pull out the feets (isn't really a problem, I would use them anyway).
2- Two keys are not working properly. One has an loose spring and the other an out of phase spring. I already fixed a similar issue with my model M spacebar so is just pattience.
I'll do a external stabilizer for my spacebar, but not today because I have things to do.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
If you try this I urge the utmost caution, but occasionally you can press straight down on the pivot plate with a tiny screwdriver or toothpick and then shift it laterally a millimeter or so and get its "ears" back into the slots where they belong. A flashlight and a strong pair of reading glasses might let you see whether it is seated properly.
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
So you think that the flipper isn't in the right place? I'm also trying to pull out the broken spring but isn't working. Every time I put a spring in the one which hasn't nothing feels linear, the second one with the broken spring feels linear or do a weird click. Hopefully I'll fix this without opening again. Even the plastic case is diabolic to put on with the new foam. I wonder if you technique will work with the colossal among of pressure of that evil sandwich.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
If this is an AT then yes, it is a nightmare to open and close the case.
Even after 2 dozen or more Model F mods it still often takes me 2-3 attempts to get every key assembly right. And yes that means taking it completely apart and putting it completely back together each time. I have resigned myself to assuming that is just a normal part of the process.
Even after 2 dozen or more Model F mods it still often takes me 2-3 attempts to get every key assembly right. And yes that means taking it completely apart and putting it completely back together each time. I have resigned myself to assuming that is just a normal part of the process.
- PlacaFromHell
- Location: Argentina
- Main keyboard: IBM 3101
- Main mouse: Optical piece of shit
- Favorite switch: Beamspring
- DT Pro Member: -
It's an XT. I think I'll open it again tomorrow, is horrible restore these things.
-
- Location: Singapore
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F122 XT Beamspring 3727
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I've restored 4 or 5 XT, an AT and a 122. The F122 is by far the hardest to get the sandwiching plates together. XT is still doable by hand while the F122 is completely not doable without appropriate tools for it.
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