Hello all,
I recently acquired a 1988 1391401, it had been tucked away in a box for at least a decade by its previous owner but it was overall in very good cosmetic shape.
I have noticed that the number key on the top row (#1 to 0) feel more responsive/ less pingy than the rest of the keys.
Is it more likely that this is due to old, worn springs, or is that the middle plastic part deteriorating after several decades and my model m is in need of a bolt mod?
what made you do your bolt mods, were the keys not functioning as well or is there some sort of characteristic or symptom that I should be looking for?
I can make a video if needed. Cheers!
How do you know if a model m is in need of a bolt mod?
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- Location: Philly
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: logitech
- Favorite switch: kailh low blue
- DT Pro Member: -
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- Location: Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany
- Main keyboard: NL Bullet Planck
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 7000
- Favorite switch: lubed vin black, BS
- DT Pro Member: -
IMHO a model M only really needs a bolt mod when to many of the plastic rivets on the bottom of the inner part are broken or some of the flippers are broken and it needs to get opened up to get fixed.
But in case you simply want your model m to be a bit more sturdy and sound a bit 'harder', less pingy and feel a bit more uniform, I'd recommend you to bolt mod it.
But in case you simply want your model m to be a bit more sturdy and sound a bit 'harder', less pingy and feel a bit more uniform, I'd recommend you to bolt mod it.
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- Location: Beamspringville
- Main keyboard: 4704
- DT Pro Member: 0186
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- Location: Philly
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: logitech
- Favorite switch: kailh low blue
- DT Pro Member: -
pulled and re-seated 90% of the keys when I first received the keyboard; many of keys didnt register due to incorrectly placed springs, so i redid that right away. some of the keys are just slightly sloppier/ exhibit less rebound.
- Quartz64
- Location: Russia
- Main keyboard: Kinesis Contoured (Kailh Box Black, Koala)
- Main mouse: Elecom Huge
- Favorite switch: Durock Koala
- DT Pro Member: 0253
- Contact:
I have got first gen M-122 (with thick backplate) which feeled nicely, with uniform sharp click among all keys. This board was missing more than 20 plastic rivets, mostly on top and numpad areas.
My second M had only one broken rivet, but I have decided to open it anyway. I was right – there were stains from spilled liquid on the membrane and a bit of corrosion which had to be removed.
So, my opinion is: always do the bolt mod if you perform a restoration of Model M, especially for someone else who will want that keyboard to be in nice working condition for another 20–30 years.
My second M had only one broken rivet, but I have decided to open it anyway. I was right – there were stains from spilled liquid on the membrane and a bit of corrosion which had to be removed.
So, my opinion is: always do the bolt mod if you perform a restoration of Model M, especially for someone else who will want that keyboard to be in nice working condition for another 20–30 years.