Model F keyboard restoration

[gazza341]

Ok, so I've already got a model F XT in pristine condition, with original box, polystyrene inserts and dust cover, but now it's time for me to take on the challenge of restoring one, saving it from the ravages of time and abuse.

Firstly I had to find a worthy cause



Then set about separating the workings from the case













I removed the paint and rust with a sanding block, then sprayed it with a cold galvanize paint

I initially got the foam layer from a craft shop, but on assembly found it was just too thick


I cleaned off the residue left by the perished original membrane with meths




After discovering the foam was too thick, I decided to try some thin polystyrene waffle stuff you can find in some packaging

The key caps were just soaked in hot soapy water, then cleaned with a non abrasive dish sponge


The original cord had some serious stretch issues, so I coiled it tightly around a bamboo stick, poured boiling water over it, then stuck it in the freezer.


I quite enjoyed this attempt, but not quite as much as I enjoy typing on it - now looks like new apart from the slight yellowing of the tabs that stick out to adjust the feet.
The only thing that remains is to add some rubber dots to replace the perished cork pads underneath



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MrDuul]

Wow man. Amazing work!!!

[seebart]

Yeah that looks real nice, great work gazza341!

[j0d1]

Thank you very much for this guide! I will restore a Model F XT this summer and this helps a lot.

[gazza341]

thanks for the praise on doing this restoration - glad it may be of help with anyone attempting the same

[j0d1]

I read your post more carefully and I have some questions:

1. Which sanding block grain did you use to remove the rust from the plate?
2. Which cold galvanized paint did you use?
3. Do you know the tickness of the foam you used? (I'll know when I'll open my keyboard but maybe you have this information on hand). EDIT: I found 1/16" thick silicone foam on another thread.
4. Did you threat the case to remove some yellowing?

Thanks a lot!

[subcat]

Amazing work! I dread the disassembly and reassembly processes the most for my upcoming F122 restoration, did you find that aspect to be particularly daunting your first time around? I imagine the F XT is similar enough to the 122 in case construction.

[gazza341]

I read your post more carefully and I have some questions:

1. Which sanding block grain did you use to remove the rust from the plate?
2. Which cold galvanized paint did you use?
3. Do you know the tickness of the foam you used? (I'll know when I'll open my keyboard but maybe you have this information on hand). EDIT: I found 1/16" thick silicone foam on another thread.
4. Did you threat the case to remove some yellowing?

Thanks a lot!

hi j0d1

i used -
sanding block http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p84314?table=no
cold galvanising spray http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p60070? ... old%20galv
the polystyrene membrane i used was salvaged from delivery of a cooker - the very thinnest type of polystyrene i can think of - the type you may get keyboards etc delivered in - kind of a dust protection bag - very thin, possibly less than 1mm thick.
the case and keys i just soaked in soapy water - washing up liquid, then used a non abrasive sponge.
HTH

[gazza341]

Amazing work! I dread the disassembly and reassembly processes the most for my upcoming F122 restoration, did you find that aspect to be particularly daunting your first time around? I imagine the F XT is similar enough to the 122 in case construction.

hi subcat

TBH, the threads i had read on the net really made me hesitant to do the restoration, but i figured just how difficult can it be.
i was worried it may never go back together properly, but if you take your time and don't substitute the original membrane with anything too thick to get the plates to slide back together - you shouldn't have any problems at all. i was even tempted to leave the membrane out, but insulate just the controller board where the cable connects, but thought if at least i put something there, it may add some acoustic dampening

hope the f122 goes well - i'm on the lookout for one of them as my next restore job

[j0d1]

Thank you for the precision, gazza!

[ohaimark]

I found that flipping the tabs around can hide some of the yellowing. My AT tabs were yellowed on top, but now it's hidden.

[fohat]

the threads i had read on the net really made me hesitant to do the restoration, but i figured just how difficult can it be.

i was worried it may never go back together properly, but if you take your time

The use of clamps makes it so much easier. With the 1.5mm (1/16") art foam it takes some effort to slide it all back together but it is well worth it in my opinion.

[ohaimark]

Spray the foam and PCB with dry PTFE lube beforehand and you barely even need to clamp it. Will slide smooth as butter when dry.

[just_add_coffee]

Thanks for the pics! I hadn't seen a description of how to re-coil these cables before.

The use of clamps makes it so much easier. With the 1.5mm (1/16") art foam it takes some effort to slide it all back together but it is well worth it in my opinion.

I was skeptical of the art foam when fohat mentioned it here, but after trying something else first and then the art foam, I seriously wish I had just listened to fohat!

For cutting the holes, a 2mm and a 12 mm hole punch are very nice to have.

[gazza341]

nice tips - will give the dry PTFE lube a try on my next attempt - wasn't aware of this dry lube spray - every day's a school day!
yes, a hole punch is well worth using - i used a copper pipe reducer, and filed the edge so it would aid cutting the foam