Looks like I need to replace the internals of my G81, and now I'm evaluating my options:
Are g80 internals compatible with the G81 case (winkeyless)?
Replacing G81 internals with G80 internals
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
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I know a winkeyless G80-3000 PCB fits in a G81-1000 case, but the Cherry product range is so vast that's all I can verify. Good luck!
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Perhaps that could be repaired, using a "Circuit repair pen", conductive ink or some kind of metal tape. I once managed to bridge a circuit on a membrane using "Bare Metal" foil for model kits - I was surprised to find that it was conductive even on the glue-side. If you have any conductive glue (for heat sinks etc.) then maybe that might also work.
I know that in G8x-3000 with Windows keys, the G81 and G80 have the same case. The winkeyless G80-3000 are different on the inside though.
I know that in G8x-3000 with Windows keys, the G81 and G80 have the same case. The winkeyless G80-3000 are different on the inside though.
- photekq
- Cherry Picker
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Winkeyless G80-3000 PCBs fit inside winkeyless G81-3000 cases with no issues. They're the same cases functionally.
- Alkhar
- Location: France, im Elsass
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G80-3000 winkey pcb fit a G81-3000 new case only if you cut the round shapped holder that is present in the case.
I may post a picture if i found one, i think its photek that post in on a GH post maybe, not sure.
As for the older g81 case there should be no problem, the only one is if you want to add a plate to it you have to make cut in the upper shell, again this process was explained here or in a Gh post, with picture and marking for the cutting to make, but its quite experimental, and it had no dimensions, all handmade.
I may post a picture if i found one, i think its photek that post in on a GH post maybe, not sure.
As for the older g81 case there should be no problem, the only one is if you want to add a plate to it you have to make cut in the upper shell, again this process was explained here or in a Gh post, with picture and marking for the cutting to make, but its quite experimental, and it had no dimensions, all handmade.
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- Location: land of the rusty beamsprings
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It's hard to see on the picture, but It there are holes where the traces have been ... and the plastic looks molten. No idea how that happened really. At first I thought that I fucked up by not loosening contacts from the controller board, but now I think that this might have been a short of some sort ... but now I'm unsure if there's even enough current there for that to happen.Findecanor wrote: Perhaps that could be repaired, using a "Circuit repair pen", conductive ink or some kind of metal tape. I once managed to bridge a circuit on a membrane using "Bare Metal" foil for model kits - I was surprised to find that it was conductive even on the glue-side. If you have any conductive glue (for heat sinks etc.) then maybe that might also work.
So I would be hesitant to fix this, just in case it "catches fire" later on.
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- Location: land of the rusty beamsprings
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Add a plate above the pcb (as in plate mounted switches) or add a G81 plate under the pcb for case weight and stability ... for the former I would be interested in the link, though only for reading funAlkhar wrote: As for the older g81 case there should be no problem, the only one is if you want to add a plate to it you have to make cut in the upper shell, again this process was explained here or in a Gh post, with picture and marking for the cutting to make, but its quite experimental, and it had no dimensions, all handmade.

- gogusrl
- Location: Romania
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Just did that a few days ago. You're looking at a G80-3000HAD pcb in a G81-3000HAU case with G81-3000LPMDE thick lasered pbt keycaps and doubleshot bottom row (because the donor was winkeyed and offcenter). Pretty happy with the result.

