
Keyboard oh shit moments ?
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
If you leave retrobright on for too long, especially here in Texas where it can be quite dry, the water evaporates out, the concentration of peroxide goes up, and the plastic underneath undergoes an irreversible "bloom" process. This happened to me twice before I figured out what it was. I ruined a friend's part this way. 

- alh84001
- v.001
- Location: EU-HR-ZG
- Main keyboard: unsaver
- Main mouse: logitech m305 / apple trackpad
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
@XMIT, I learned that the hard way when I ruined my AEK case. I can still repaint it though.
@Chyros It came that way from the factory. At least my assumption was that once they screwed everything together, they poured solder over the bolt head. Another Omnikey 101 has all the bolts like this, some have head contours visible, some are completely covered. I'll take a pic later.
@Chyros It came that way from the factory. At least my assumption was that once they screwed everything together, they poured solder over the bolt head. Another Omnikey 101 has all the bolts like this, some have head contours visible, some are completely covered. I'll take a pic later.
- Wodan
- ISO Advocate
- Location: ISO-DE
- Main keyboard: Intense Rotation!!!
- Main mouse: Logitech G903
- Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
- DT Pro Member: -
Not sure if that's the right place but I literally yelled "SHIT !!!" and other things when I popped the switches off of that Nixie candidate. Been so super desperate for Nixies ...
https://imgur.com/1J3Qv2X
https://imgur.com/1J3Qv2X
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Haha seriously those Nixdorf magnetic valve switches make "nixies" look like a mediocre overhyped toy.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
The switches are not the problem but the Nixdorf controller and the protocol it "speaks". The terminal looked something like this:
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
Oh, and - I can't forget the fun, of pulling an NEC Blue Ovals key cap out straight up and destroying the switch mechanism, only to find out that it is made of Delrin and cannot be glued back together.
Or, similarly, how much fun it was to try pulling a Key Tronic foam and foil key cap off to the side, and snapping the little guide arms that click into the sliders. At least those are ABS and can be glued back together.
Not, can we forget, the sheer joy of removing a Space Invaders key cap and losing the spring, never to find it again. Or the fun of doing a bolt mod on a Model M and realizing that there is one extra (or one missing) hammer and spring.
Can't forget the frustration of finding a difficult to replace 10u Cherry MX space bar warped and rendered useless by washing it in water that is too warm.
The way to learn is by doing, sadly, and I've done dozens of successful repairs to the extent that it's been a net win, but there are some frustrating times for sure.
Or, similarly, how much fun it was to try pulling a Key Tronic foam and foil key cap off to the side, and snapping the little guide arms that click into the sliders. At least those are ABS and can be glued back together.
Not, can we forget, the sheer joy of removing a Space Invaders key cap and losing the spring, never to find it again. Or the fun of doing a bolt mod on a Model M and realizing that there is one extra (or one missing) hammer and spring.
Can't forget the frustration of finding a difficult to replace 10u Cherry MX space bar warped and rendered useless by washing it in water that is too warm.
The way to learn is by doing, sadly, and I've done dozens of successful repairs to the extent that it's been a net win, but there are some frustrating times for sure.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Yeah I've destroyed a few space invaders. I've also torn the stem off Beamspring switches but that's fixable.
- alh84001
- v.001
- Location: EU-HR-ZG
- Main keyboard: unsaver
- Main mouse: logitech m305 / apple trackpad
- Favorite switch: BS
- DT Pro Member: -
I lost a SKCM white spring recently. Serves me right for not doing it on the desk but on the couch. That bugger is smaller than a space invader spring and it went somewhere behind the couch against the wall. It's still there somewhere 
I also have to open a space invader clicky switch because it won't click. Wish me luck.

I also have to open a space invader clicky switch because it won't click. Wish me luck.
- Darkshado
- Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
- Main keyboard: WASD V2 MX Clears (work); M, F, Matias, etc (home)
- Main mouse: Logitech G502 (work), G502 + CST L-Trac (home)
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring, SKCM Cream Dampened, MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: 0237
After realizing I deformed a Model M case with a heat gun while trying to remove its LED overlay. (The latter was completely unfazed.)
- Daniel Beardsmore
- Location: Hertfordshire, England
- Main keyboard: Filco Majestouch 1 (home)/Poker II backlit (work)
- Main mouse: MS IMO 1.1
- Favorite switch: Probably not whatever I wrote here
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Just gave my Poker II a clean (turned it upside down, tapped and shook it, and brushed out the dust), and the space bar died. It seems that there's some dirt inside the switch that eventually dislodged, and space is working again. However, when I reassembled it and connected it back to my computer, it would power on and then back off without the computer detecting it. Oops ... ESD killed the controller? Nope, works on my laptop OK … I'm guessing that the USB port on the back of the monitor that I was using is bad — tried the other one, and it works. (I didn't check which one it was in front-to-back.)