Ready made Retr0bright - UK
- ShivaYash
- Location: de
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2 BT
- Main mouse: CH Products Trackball Pro
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Hello chaps,
I am thinking of using this on some of my kit.
http://www.salon-services.com/salon-ser ... -12-40vol/
But I've read online that oxi-clean and water will also work, and is much less harsh.
Any thoughts?
With best,
SY
I am thinking of using this on some of my kit.
http://www.salon-services.com/salon-ser ... -12-40vol/
But I've read online that oxi-clean and water will also work, and is much less harsh.
Any thoughts?
With best,
SY
- matt3o
- -[°_°]-
- Location: Italy
- Main keyboard: WhiteFox
- Main mouse: Anywhere MX
- Favorite switch: Anything, really
- DT Pro Member: 0030
- Contact:
perfect formula is peroxide+oxi
- derzemel
- Location: Bucharest, Romania
- Main keyboard: FC660C, SSK, TX-1800 Nixie
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 7000
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCL/SKCM tactile
home-brew.
You can use this Vanish thing as the oxi together with that Peroxide hair bleach emulsion
Last edited by derzemel on 10 May 2016, 13:25, edited 1 time in total.
- ShivaYash
- Location: de
- Main keyboard: HHKB Pro 2 BT
- Main mouse: CH Products Trackball Pro
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
Yes, and what about peroxide? what strength?
Does this work? http://www.salon-services.com/salon-ser ... -12-40vol/
Or is it too strong?
Or this: http://www.salon-services.com/salon-ser ... de-liquid/
Does this work? http://www.salon-services.com/salon-ser ... -12-40vol/
Or is it too strong?
Or this: http://www.salon-services.com/salon-ser ... de-liquid/
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Or try kbdfr's formula:
workshop-f7/g80-5000-mod-questions-t10958.html
⦁ 12% H2O2 cream for hairdressers (e.g. on eBay for a few euros),
⦁ Stain remover (Oxi Vanish) as a spray (for a few euros)
⦁ Paint brush (less than 1 euro)
⦁ Dripping assembly, small
Apply H2O2 cream with the brush (not much more than a spoon needed for a keyboard case), then spray Oxi Vanish upon it and brush. Brush again in intervalls of about half an hour, adding a bit H2O2 and Oxi Vanish if needed to prevent drying (which is essential). Use gloves (OK, I don’t, I’m just careful to avoid any splashing and skin contact) and be aware the stuff will inevitably drip.
When exposed to sunlight (which obviously is necessary), a yellowed keyboard case will need not more than a few (let’s say 4) hours to look like new again.
At least that’s my experience (based on half a dozen items), but of course I won’t be liable if you mess it up.Before doing it inside, I would ascertain there are no toxic emissions.Quite a few of us have already given an arm and a leg for a keyboard, but would you give a lung?
kbdfr▼
The Tiproman
workshop-f7/g80-5000-mod-questions-t10958.html
⦁ 12% H2O2 cream for hairdressers (e.g. on eBay for a few euros),
⦁ Stain remover (Oxi Vanish) as a spray (for a few euros)
⦁ Paint brush (less than 1 euro)
⦁ Dripping assembly, small
Apply H2O2 cream with the brush (not much more than a spoon needed for a keyboard case), then spray Oxi Vanish upon it and brush. Brush again in intervalls of about half an hour, adding a bit H2O2 and Oxi Vanish if needed to prevent drying (which is essential). Use gloves (OK, I don’t, I’m just careful to avoid any splashing and skin contact) and be aware the stuff will inevitably drip.
When exposed to sunlight (which obviously is necessary), a yellowed keyboard case will need not more than a few (let’s say 4) hours to look like new again.
At least that’s my experience (based on half a dozen items), but of course I won’t be liable if you mess it up.Before doing it inside, I would ascertain there are no toxic emissions.Quite a few of us have already given an arm and a leg for a keyboard, but would you give a lung?
kbdfr▼
The Tiproman
- Wodan
- ISO Advocate
- Location: ISO-DE
- Main keyboard: Intense Rotation!!!
- Main mouse: Logitech G903
- Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
- DT Pro Member: -
I can really recommend just sinking stuff in peroxide (11%) and then apply UV light.
An ABS tool box I got from Aldi a while back is a great container for the peroxide. It's dimentions perfectly fit almost all keyboard cases and keycap sets. Only really large vintage keyboard cases don't fit in
But you can re-use the same peroxide tons of times until there's no more reaction. 10L of peroxide in 11% strength is 20€ delivered here.
http://www.amazon.de/10-Wasserstoffpero ... detailpage
No worries about even application or stuff drying, no need to add any oxi stuff.
This is the box I use to sink stuff in peroxide, even comes with a lid to keep dirt off when not in use:
http://src.discounto.de/pics/Angebote/2 ... iginal.jpg
An ABS tool box I got from Aldi a while back is a great container for the peroxide. It's dimentions perfectly fit almost all keyboard cases and keycap sets. Only really large vintage keyboard cases don't fit in

But you can re-use the same peroxide tons of times until there's no more reaction. 10L of peroxide in 11% strength is 20€ delivered here.
http://www.amazon.de/10-Wasserstoffpero ... detailpage
No worries about even application or stuff drying, no need to add any oxi stuff.
This is the box I use to sink stuff in peroxide, even comes with a lid to keep dirt off when not in use:
http://src.discounto.de/pics/Angebote/2 ... iginal.jpg
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
- derzemel
- Location: Bucharest, Romania
- Main keyboard: FC660C, SSK, TX-1800 Nixie
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 7000
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCL/SKCM tactile
no need for OXI powder to be mixed with the peroxide when sinking stuff in it??Wodan wrote: I can really recommend just sinking stuff in peroxide (11%) and then apply UV light.
An ABS tool box I got from Aldi a while back is a great container for the peroxide. It's dimentions perfectly fit almost all keyboard cases and keycap sets. Only really large vintage keyboard cases don't fit in
But you can re-use the same peroxide tons of times until there's no more reaction. 10L of peroxide in 11% strength is 20€ delivered here.
http://www.amazon.de/10-Wasserstoffpero ... detailpage
No worries about even application or stuff drying, no need to add any oxi stuff.
This is the box I use to sink stuff in peroxide, even comes with a lid to keep dirt off when not in use:
http://src.discounto.de/pics/Angebote/2 ... iginal.jpg
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Statement with question mark at the end? (Sorry, I've apparently just hit my lifetime limit on uptalk.)
Yeah, my understanding is the peroxide is mandatory but the oxy is optional. It's a speed booster, apparently. The peroxide is the fuel.
Yeah, my understanding is the peroxide is mandatory but the oxy is optional. It's a speed booster, apparently. The peroxide is the fuel.
- Wodan
- ISO Advocate
- Location: ISO-DE
- Main keyboard: Intense Rotation!!!
- Main mouse: Logitech G903
- Favorite switch: ALL OF THEM
- DT Pro Member: -
No, just peroxide + UV light. It's foolproof, I put the keycaps on old G81 chassis (heavy enough to stay down!) and sink them in the box, turn on the UV light and take them out 12-24h later depending on the grade of yellowing. You will see bubbles on the ABS when the reaction is happening. Should there not be any more bubbles the bleaching is either complete or the peroxide is depleted and you swap it for fresh peroxide.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Muirium wrote: Statement with question mark at the end? (Sorry, I've apparently just hit my lifetime limit on uptalk.)
Hmm that's like sophisticated new school seebarting without the actual edit then...1. A way of speaking that puts an upward inflection on the last word of a statement that makes it sound like a question when it's not. (Common among teens and surfers.)

- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Time was Scotland was the place you'd never hear an upturn, even when the brusque commanding sput of words just shot at you, cold and angry looking eye to eye, was in fact a question. Most people are still like that, but the Aussie epidemic seems to be rolling back in again lately. Here I thought we were done with it once they'd finished Friends.
Always amuses me when visitors think we're friendly! Charmed by our impatience?
Always amuses me when visitors think we're friendly! Charmed by our impatience?
- E3E
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Blue, Neon Green, Striped Amber, Cream Alps, Topre
- Main mouse: Logitech, Topre
- Favorite switch: Alps, Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
The immersion method takes a LOT longer than simply spraying and using a fairly powerful UV. I used a fluorescent UV wash lamp that was around 100W, but it was a bit too powerful for some applications and would cause bleaching a lot easier.
I bought a wide LED UV wash light bar for retrobrighting and it works fantastic in my little light box while also not being as harsh as the fluorescent light. It takes longer but is much safer for the plastic.


If you can't tell, I used the immersion method for these Acer caps, but I didn't really think it was worth the extra time. I didn't notice better results. I definitely think that caps shouldn't ever be RB'd with a strong UV light though. I've bleached a set with this lamp. I never had bleaching problems in the sun. Key caps seem the most sensitive to bleaching issues from my experience.

I bought a wide LED UV wash light bar for retrobrighting and it works fantastic in my little light box while also not being as harsh as the fluorescent light. It takes longer but is much safer for the plastic.


If you can't tell, I used the immersion method for these Acer caps, but I didn't really think it was worth the extra time. I didn't notice better results. I definitely think that caps shouldn't ever be RB'd with a strong UV light though. I've bleached a set with this lamp. I never had bleaching problems in the sun. Key caps seem the most sensitive to bleaching issues from my experience.
