Unitek K-155 Keyboard
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Here are some pictures of a Unitek keyboard I acquired at an electronics store yesterday. The board was VERY dirty when I first picked it up and needed some cleaning.
Here is the label.
This was the state of the board before I cleaned it.
Here is the label.
This was the state of the board before I cleaned it.
Last edited by Redmaus on 02 Apr 2015, 23:31, edited 1 time in total.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
In order to clean it, I opened the whole thing in order to get to the barrel plate and interior. I unscrewed all the screws I saw and the board wouldn't open in one area. This guy was hiding from me!
Another yucky part of the keyboard...
The huge spacebar has a linear cherry mx gray switch underneath supported by two stabilizers. Are these supposed to be more smooth than the newer mx grays like the cherry mx blacks? You can also see that some of the keys have been faded and damaged. On closer inspection, I believe these are dyesub, but a chemical or something got on a few of the keys and caused the damage.
The keyboard has two folding feet that feel a little flimsy, but get the job done.
Here is a shot of the keyboard PCB
Here is the keyboard assembly. Plate mounted switches.
Another yucky part of the keyboard...
The huge spacebar has a linear cherry mx gray switch underneath supported by two stabilizers. Are these supposed to be more smooth than the newer mx grays like the cherry mx blacks? You can also see that some of the keys have been faded and damaged. On closer inspection, I believe these are dyesub, but a chemical or something got on a few of the keys and caused the damage.
The keyboard has two folding feet that feel a little flimsy, but get the job done.
Here is a shot of the keyboard PCB
Here is the keyboard assembly. Plate mounted switches.
Last edited by Redmaus on 01 Apr 2015, 03:11, edited 1 time in total.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I also cleaned the key caps. I soaked them in hot soapy water, and then hand washed each of them under hot water. Took quite a while.
I actually like the cable on this board a lot. It feels solid, has a nice coil, has a glossy black feel, and the end is a full metal piece.
Here are the after cleaning pics of the keyboard. I used an air compressor and an alcohol soaked toothbrush to clean it.
Barrel Plate:
Fully assembled.
Hope you all enjoyed!
I actually like the cable on this board a lot. It feels solid, has a nice coil, has a glossy black feel, and the end is a full metal piece.
Here are the after cleaning pics of the keyboard. I used an air compressor and an alcohol soaked toothbrush to clean it.
Barrel Plate:
Fully assembled.
Hope you all enjoyed!

Last edited by Redmaus on 01 Apr 2015, 03:27, edited 1 time in total.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
Desoldering!
I thought about not harvesting the switches but there are two missing keys and some are damaged beyond repair and good luck finding replacements.
I desoldered all the switches on the PCB like in the picture. This took about one or two hours to finish!
Once everything was desoldered, I had to rip the PCB to pieces in order to get the switches off. It just would not let go! There were probably some unfinished soldering now that I look back on it.
Next step was to pop them all out of the barrel plate.
The hardest part was my desolderer. I think it's pretty old, it's just what my Father had available. The end kept popping out!
I wonder is there any use for the barrel plate now? Or should I just recycle it?
Here are all the switches in a bowl with the mx gray in the middle.
I am pleased to report that there were no casualties among the switches. Except for the one below that was already damaged when I got the keyboard. The switch will still depress, it is just unstable. I have marked it with a silver circle on both sides of the switch. The damaged switch is the one on the left.
I will be selling these switches, shoot me an offer. There are 95 total, and minus two if you don't count the unstable one and the mx gray switch(if you want that too)
I am also selling the keycaps for 5$ + shipping. The ones that are not damaged are actually quite nice, and I think these are dyesub. Not sure what you would use them for, but they're available.
I want to hold onto the cable. It still holds a nice coil and its sturdy and has a nice feel to it. I might be able to use it for something in the future.

I thought about not harvesting the switches but there are two missing keys and some are damaged beyond repair and good luck finding replacements.

I desoldered all the switches on the PCB like in the picture. This took about one or two hours to finish!


I am also selling the keycaps for 5$ + shipping. The ones that are not damaged are actually quite nice, and I think these are dyesub. Not sure what you would use them for, but they're available.
I want to hold onto the cable. It still holds a nice coil and its sturdy and has a nice feel to it. I might be able to use it for something in the future.
Last edited by Redmaus on 04 Apr 2015, 02:25, edited 4 times in total.
- Ace
- §
- Location: TX, USA
- Main mouse: Magic Mouse/Trackpad 2
- Favorite switch: Membrane Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
An easier method is:
salad spinner
6 cups or 1.5L hot water (212F or 100 C for PBT key caps only, 160F or 70 C for all others)
1T or 15mL dishwasher soap (ideally unscented and no added color. I use Seventh Generation Natural Dishwasher Detergent Gel, available at H-E-B, the local grocery store.)
Combine water, dish soap and key caps in salad spinner.
Spin for 10 seconds to mix soap thoroughly.
Let sit for 15 minutes. Maybe clean other parts of the keyboard while waiting.
Spin for a couple of minutes, slowly. There may be no suds especially with hard Texas water, this is okay.
Drain.
Rinse 5 times.
Spin to dry.
Let keycaps dry on a towel until no moisture remains.

- scottc
- ☃
- Location: Remote locations in Europe
- Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
Using this with a modern computer won't require any converting if you have a PS2 port. It speaks AT, so with a simple DIN5 to PS2 adapter, it will work just fine.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I might do that for you. Some if the keys on this board are ruined, and the layout means you can't just replace with different ones. There were also two keys missing when I bought it. But one thing is the linear gray key. Do you want it? I am not sure if they are supposed to be smoother than the current MX grays like the blacks are. But all of the switches are indeed very smooth

- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
- scottc
- ☃
- Location: Remote locations in Europe
- Main keyboard: GH60-HASRO 62g Nixies, HHKB Pro1 HS, Novatouch
- Main mouse: Steelseries Rival 300
- Favorite switch: Nixdorf 'Soft Touch' MX Black
- DT Pro Member: -
- Ace
- §
- Location: TX, USA
- Main mouse: Magic Mouse/Trackpad 2
- Favorite switch: Membrane Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I actually prefer PS/2 to USB. As far as I know, it's the fasted way to get a key stroke from the board to your PC. It just sucks for mobile......you know, laptops, tablets etc.
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:

I actually have an IBM F122 ANSI conversion that I need to post once I finish formatting and editing. Unlike this guide which was quickly photographed with a point and shoot, the ANSI conversion was taken with an SLR macro lens

-
- Location: Houston, TX
- Main keyboard: Vortex Pok3r RGB
- Main mouse: Cooler Master Mastermouse S
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Brown
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi! Sorry to hear your keyboard was missing a few key caps. Today, I found one of these in a barn, but I am missing one of the feet that folds down :'(Redmaus wrote: Desoldering!![]()
I will be selling these switches, shoot me an offer. There are 95 total, and minus two if you don't count the unstable one and the mx gray switch(if you want that too)
I am also selling the keycaps for 5$ + shipping. The ones that are not damaged are actually quite nice, and I think these are dyesub. Not sure what you would use them for, but they're available.
I want to hold onto the cable. It still holds a nice coil and its sturdy and has a nice feel to it. I might be able to use it for something in the future.
Do you still have the feet from your keyboard? I would really like to completely restore my keyboard. So if you are willing to part with them, please send me a message!
Also, the end of my cable was cut off, so I think I will be needing to put a new connector if not an entire cable. Right now, I am thinking I will use a PS/2 cable instead of the serial, since nobody has serial ports, and I don't like adapters. So, if anyone has any ideas on what to use for a new cable or adapter, please let me know!
Thanks!
-Kev