I would also add holds for direct soldering of the cable to the pcb. I have many cables with the wrong connector at one side that I would not mind to cut

I would also add holds for direct soldering of the cable to the pcb. I have many cables with the wrong connector at one side that I would not mind to cut
Thanks Phospor! (i$, you got ninja'd!)phosphorglow wrote:Can and will do!Muirium wrote: Could you leave a set of through holes for the 4 USB lines, for those of us who like to string up our own socket on the keyboard chassis? That'd be mighty convenient! If so, labels please!
The standard names and numbering are here:
http://pinouts.ws/usb-pinout.html
Going to need this little provision for terminal boards anyhoo.
I'm using a Lipo Rider. A .sch file is linked to somewhere on that wiki page, and I found a printout of an older version of the schematic on this page: http://www.radiolocman.com/shem/schemat ... ?di=111557 . It's more parts than I would have thought.
Neat! I'll play around and see if I can get everything to play along nicely in the layout.Halvar wrote: Thanks for the changes regarding pins!
I'm using a Lipo Rider. A .sch file is linked to somewhere on that wiki page, and I found a printout of an older version of the schematic on this page: http://www.radiolocman.com/shem/schemat ... ?di=111557 . It's more parts than I would have thought.
Okie dokie! Gotcha. Plenty of room on the bottom for some extra through-holes. I'll add 'em in.Muirium wrote: Direct wiring! Many of us like to install our own sockets in the case, for a nice finished look. When dealing with a Teensy (or anything else with integrated sockets that will lie deep inside the shell) we wind up having to hack apart an appropriate USB cable. One end plugs into that socket, and the other end gets spliced onto our own panel mount socket on the case. It's a fiddly, dirty job I'd rather avoid with helpful through-holes for easy access to the 4 lines which make up USB.
Based on the info I'm getting from Halvar, yup!
I guess the EZkey can pretty easily be added optionally to work on the breadboard, all it needs are the UART pins and a few arbitrary extra pins, the rest is software. Only thing I'm not sure about is if the Bluetooth antenna on the EZKey's PCB will work well at that place directly under the metal plate, it might in the end be better to only solder a connector on the breadboard holes and put the actual EZKey somewhere else in the keyboard case. No problem though.
Ooooh goody goody, thanks!0100010 wrote: Writeup of an EZkey build here : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=67087.0