deskthority

Oh look, a Pure with a messed up function layer.
The whole point why I got this thing was so I could use the cursor keys without moving one hand from the standard position. After some time getting used to it, it works just fine now. OKL; is just a mirrored WASD in the end. But PL;'? Without moving ...

Great, now the B key on my Pure stopped working properly. Sometimes it does not work at all, sometimes the letter comes in choppy when I keep the key pressed. First I thought the soldering is bad, so I just touched up the spots and this seemed to do the job. But after a while the problem reoccured ...

Lucky you, my caps start cracking one after another. Probably It's really a faulty model. A college of mine has a KBT Race that is almost as old as my Pure and the caps still look like new, but the coating also has a slightly different texture. So obviously it is possible to make not completely ...

How did you put together the layout? A 37 key set, a number row and the rest individual caps?

Can anybody share long-term experiences with the unlit keycaps? I know, they are not special or anything, but I would still be interested on how durable the lettering is. I saw mechanicalkeyboards.com sells them at the moment and I'm thinking of downgrading my pure to an unlit version. Of course ...

Wow, double shots with clear legends! Now if the could also make clear FN-legends on the side it would be perfect to replace Pure keys
OK, will most likely not happen but does anyone know if this is possible in theory? I don't really know how exactly double shots are made.

Well, I wasn't so sure the caps are so bad to begin with. It's not like I just wear them off, the coating was simpy done improperly on some keys. The main row (especially F and J) are real shiny by now but don't loke like they would break anytime soon.
I know, it's not rationale, but when I actually ...

Of course the subtext of my last post was if you want to get rid of the caps for a few shiny coins...
But I guess that might turn out to be expensive anyway, when you are from non-EU.

Thanks for the explanation, the whole KBC/KBT/Vortex thing always confused me.

As for returning the board now...well, what difference does it make? The coating was not good to start with and don't forget the LED I had to resolder (see few pages ago). I should have sent it back right away, but in ...

The broken coating of the keys (both shift, both ctrl and one win key) really bugs me. I could just return it to Amazon but honestly it just bugs me to see a good keyboard go to waste just because of a few asthetic nuisances. But since KBT does not even have to seem a web page or anything (http ...

I own two pures (but really only use one) and the built quality is not overwhelming. I had to resolder an LED on one and the caps aren't very durable. Typing is great, as long as you can get used to the FN-Layer, esp. the arrow keys.
As the build problems are all related to the backlighting (incl ...

As far as I know it doesn't have PBT keycaps or plate mounted switches, is this correct?
Hmm, i think in the Pure thread someone said it was PBT, but mechnicalkeyboards.com claims its ABS.
And there is/was a version with an aluminum case. I, for one, don't really see the need for that in such a ...

phasebash wrote:If there was a Cherry MX Blue keyboard out there of equal build quality it would be a very hard decision.

Well, there is the KBTalking Pure, also available in an unlit version. The caps for the backlit version are the only real problem i have with mine.

I simply used soft furniture sliders for that...

I think the case is pretty sturdy. Solid plastic, no noticable flexing. The small size helps with that, of course. My second Pure had a slightly bend case making it wobble, but could easily be twisted into position.

So much for how durable the key coating is:
Admittedly, the coating looked a bit unclean (little "folds") before and i always hit ctlr-left with the nail of my pinky.

Back in a year with unlabeled translucent caps

I got myself a second one, and this time it seems to be fine.
Only the key coating seems noticeably thicker this time.

Disclaimer: i know close to nothing about electro technics :D

I used my multimeter and touched the FN Led - works!
I touched the LED of a standard key - only a slight glow on this and other LEDs, because they are all in the same circuit.
Now comes the funny part: if i use the correct polarity on ...

So i gave it a try and Hit the soldering points of the LED but no luck :-(
Not that i really need the light, but it just bugs me.
Even returning the board might be difficult, as you can see the soldering points were touched (in case the Dealer tries to fix it)
I could maybe switch the LED with the ...

So, now i ordered it anyway...and the light under the "i" is not working and the light under FN is dimmer than the others
Also, the letters are not all completely translucent and they really could have packed are short manual with the dip switch settings etc

Hello,
i'm thinking about getting a Pure with orange backlight. Only thing i'm worried about is how the translucent lettering is realised. These are not real double shot caps, right? They are basically translucent keys with black...well, what? Plastic coating? Just color printed on them? E.g. Razer ...